Photo above: Busstation Arusha
After spending two weeks in Arusha, it was time to move on. My next stop was Dodoma. I walked to the bus station in the center of Arusha to check ticket prices, but I disliked the chaotic atmosphere — people approached me nonstop, trying to sell me tickets to destinations I had no interest in. Instead, I went to the Shabiby office, a reputed bus company, and secured a ticket for 29,000 TZS. The bus was scheduled to leave at 10 A.M. the next day, giving me time to prepare.
Photo above: a stop between Arusha and Dodoma.
I returned to my hostel, packed my bag, and picked up snacks and water from Shoppers Supermarket, knowing that Tanzanian bus rides tend to take longer than expected. The 80-kilometer journey from Moshi to Arusha had taken me up to three hours, so I expected the longer trip to Dodoma to stretch beyond the promised eight hours.
The Journey to Dodoma
The bus ride was predictably long, making frequent stops along the way. Upon arrival in Dodoma, the bus meandered through the city, dropping off passengers. My booked accommodation was just under two kilometers from the final stop, so I decided to walk, relying on Google Maps to guide me.
Photo above: in Dodoma.
When I arrived at what was supposed to be my lodging, I was skeptical. The house lacked a sign, and an elderly woman was doing laundry in the yard. When I asked if this was the right place, she called a younger woman who spoke English and welcomed me inside. The accommodation was a full apartment, complete with a kitchen, but not cheap. Later in the evening, I attempted to shower, only to discover there was no running water. I resorted to a bucket shower, but the cramped bathroom caused water to spill into the apartment.
Photo above: the Baobab Café in Dodoma.
Exploring Dodoma
The next day, I set out to explore Dodoma. I passed a cozy café and an old-looking church, which I later learned was not as ancient as it seemed. Strolling down a lively shopping district, I admired the small stores lining the streets. Eventually, I settled at the café I had spotted earlier, enjoying a simple dinner of bread and tomato salad.
Photo above: the church in Dodoma.
Originally, I had planned to stay for just one night, but the city intrigued me, and I extended my stay. This meant I had to book my next bus ticket and gather supplies. Using the Bolt app, I ordered a TukTuk to take me to the Shabiby bus terminal. The ride cost 2,000 TZS — without Bolt, I would have been charged significantly more. I bought my ticket to Mbeya for 40,000 TZS, with a departure time of 5:30 A.M.
That night, I packed my bags and went to bed early, knowing I had an early start ahead.
The Departure to Mbeya
Waking up at 3:30 A.M., I hurriedly took another bucket shower — still no running water. I initially planned to order a TukTuk, but the Bolt app showed no available drivers. With the bus station only a 13-minute walk away, I set out on foot. Along the way, I stepped into a water hole, soaking myself up to my knees. Street vendors persistently offered me motorcycle rides, but I ignored them and continued walking.
Photo above: in Dodoma.
Arriving at the bus station, I saw the previous bus to Mbeya departing. My gut told me something was wrong. Sure enough, my bus was delayed by almost an hour. Finally, it arrived, and I boarded, relieved that I hadn’t missed it after all.
A Long Ride to Mbeya
The previous day, I had suffered from severe diarrhea. Fortunately, a local pharmacy in Dodoma provided me with pills that helped stabilize my system. I also continued taking my daily dose of Doxycycline as a malaria precaution.
Photo above: shopping street in Dodoma.
This time, I had a window seat with no one beside me, allowing me to place my backpack on the empty seat. As we traveled, I watched the Tanzanian landscape unfold. At one point, the bus crossed a dam, likely a reservoir, before being stopped by police. A policeman entered, checked my passport, and inquired about my destination. When I mentioned Mbeya, he ask me where after, and I told him to Lusaka. Then he asked if it was in Zambia, returned my passport, and he let us continue.
Photo above: the Baobab Café in Dodoma.
My host in Mbeya had instructed me to get off at Nane Nane Stand. Upon arrival, I searched for a TukTuk. Without internet access, I had to negotiate fares blindly. After rejecting overpriced offers, I managed to bargain a price of 5,000 TZS for the short ride to my accommodation, what was a bit high for a Tuktuk.
Mbeya and the Journey to the Border
Initially planning to stay two nights, exhaustion led me to extend for an extra night. The hostel was beautiful and clean but, yet again, had no running water. However, this time, the host kindly boiled water for me, allowing me to take a warm bucket shower.
Photo above: on the way to the Supermarket in Dodoma.
On my final day in Mbeya, I explored the city, visiting a new children's hospital and an old church. Tuktuk drivers repeatedly tried to overcharge me, but I insisted on the standard 800 TZS fare for public transport.
Photo above: on the way to the Supermarket in Dodoma.
The following morning, after a quick breakfast, I set off for the bus station with a fellow traveler I met at the hostel. Together, we took a bus to Tunduma for 5,000 TZS each. From there, a TukTuk ride to the border cost another 5,000 TZS.
Crossing into Zambia
The border crossing was straightforward for me — I received a free 30-day visa for Zambia. My Russian travel companion, however, needed a visa on arrival, payable in cash and only in USD. The immigration officer arranged a taxi to take us to an ATM, but the only available bank, Absa, charged exorbitant fees. Fortunately, we later found a Zanaco ATM in Nakonde that had no fees.
Photo above: between Dodoma and Mbeya.
Once we had the necessary cash, we returned to the Border immigration, paid for the visa, and proceeded into Zambia. We walked to town, grabbed some food, and checked into Shalom Hotel. It was cheap, costing only 200 Kwacha per night (under 10 Euros), but lacked cleanliness and had no running water.
A Frustrating Bus Experience
We booked a 4 A.M. bus to Lusaka with Jkas, supposedly the best company. However, when we arrived at the station at 3:28 A.M., the bus was already gone. The staff had lied, telling us the bus left at 4 A.M. but actually departing at 3 A.M. They then offered an overpriced taxi to chase the bus, which we declined.
Photo above: between Dodoma and Mbeya.
With no other options left, we searched for an alternative and eventually made our way to the PowerTools bus station — only to find that the bus also had already left.
The next bus? Overnight.
We were stuck.
The Boda Chase
That’s when a Boda driver approached us. He had been waiting at the Powertools station, watching the situation unfold. “I know where your bus is,” he said. “At the checkpoint. I can take you.”
There was no time to think. We climbed on.
The night was pitch black, the streets slick with rain and mud. As soon as he twisted the throttle, the bike lurched forward. The driver wasn’t smooth — he was riding like a madman, shaking left and right as he weaved through the darkness. The wet road made it worse, and the mud felt like a trap waiting to swallow us whole.
Photo above: between Dodoma and Mbeya.
A gust of wind blew my hat into my face, blinding me for the most time. My gut twisted — I could almost see the crash before it happened. “Slow down!” I shouted. He eased off for a while, but soon enough, he hit the gas again. “I said slow down!” I had to remind him.
It felt like an eternity. The only thought keeping me together was the hope that the checkpoint was close.
Then — buses. Dozens of them.
We told him which one was ours, but in the dim light, they all looked the same. He swerved between them, searching, until finally — Jkas.
Photo above: the old church in Mbeya.
As we pulled up, the driver suddenly changed his price from 200 to 400 Kwacha. Of course. I handed him 300, not in the mood to argue, and walked straight into the bus, relieved to be off that death ride.
The journey continued, but the morning’s chaos was a reminder that travel in Africa often requires patience and adaptability.
Final Thoughts
The journey from Arusha to Lusaka was long and filled with challenges — delayed buses, unreliable accommodations, and frustrating border experiences. Yet, the beauty of Tanzania and Zambia, the people I met, and the lessons I learned along the way made it all worthwhile. Traveling in Africa requires flexibility, but it rewards you with unforgettable experiences and stories to tell.
Photo above: in Mbeya.
Photo above: somewhere in Zambia from the Bus.
Photo above: Backpackers in Lusaka.
Photo above: in the East Park Mall in Lusaka.
Photo above: in the East Park Mall in Lusaka.
Photo above: East Park Mall in Lusaka.
Photo above: in the market in Lusaka.