This is part of an ongoing series about a major project I'm working on, the creation of a replica French Napoleonic habit.
The end result is intended to be at least very high re-enactment quality, so far above fancy dress standard, although I don't think I'm good enough to make a museum-standard one. In keeping with what is authentic for the period, I'm hand sewing every part of it. Time consuming, but quite therapeutic !
The job I've been working on since my last update (creating the parts for the cuffs, which you can read HERE) is felling-in all the internal seams.
The photo above shows the inside of the body, with the seams pressed ready for felling.
Felling seams is the process of stitching them down so that they lie flat under the lining and stay flat even if you screw the coat up in a wet soggy mass after going out in the rain.
It's a laborious step which it's really tempting to skip, because all the work will be hidden inside the lining when you've finished. But the difference it makes to the appearance and long-term durability of the coat really does make it worthwhile.
The photo above is a close-up of the stitch used. The coat is made of Melton wool, which is a heavy close-woven and felted cloth. It is perfect for felling, because you can do a stitch on the inside that is almost totally invisible on the outside.
The stitch is basically a simple spiral stitch. The goal is to go through the seam and catch just a few fibres of the body of the coat. It doesn't have to be a super-strong connection, just enough to hold the seam down.
After about two weeks of work, the inside of the coat looks like the photo above. Kind of like Frankenstein's Monster ! The "tramlines" are felling each side of each of the internal seams.
Although it's not too clear from the photo, the seam of the sleeves has to have "V" notches cut on the arm side and simple slots cut on the body side to get the seams to lay flat - you're effectively sewing a cone shape.
But despite what's going on inside, this is what the outside looks like. A few dimples here and there, but the felling is basically invisible. Success !
Chester decided he needed to inspect my work. You can see the notches in the shoulder seams in this photo. Now I know where all the extra fluff and lint on the woollen fabric comes from.....
The coat hanging up ready for the next steps; fitting the cuffs and rear false pockets.
All photos by me - sorry for the slightly iffy lighting !