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It's your favorite girl @debbie-ese 😍
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In this post, I will be sharing with you how I made a long flare bustier gown using ankara fabrics for a customer. The gown is made using ankara fabrics and she wants to embellish some flower designs in the front, so we had to buy another fabric that has a flower design on it which we will cut out to attach on the gown.
Measurements
- Bust - 46"
- Shoulder - 17"
- Bust line - 16
- Underbust - 42
- Half length - 20
- Waistline - 42
- Full gown length - 62
Materials
- 5 yards of Ankara fabric
- 4 yards of lining
- 1 yard of hair stay
- ¼ yard of breast pad (breastfed)
- 1 yard of flower-patterned fabric
- Zip
- Tailoring chalk
- Matching threads
Step by Step
- First, you will start by drafting the body measurements on your fabric. The following are the measurements we will use - bust 46", bust line 16", underbust 42", waistline 42", half length 20", and shoulder 17".
- Then, from the pattern that you have drafted, mark out your bustier style lines on the front pieces to shape the bust area the way you want it.
- Now, you will proceed to cut out the front and back pieces on both the Ankara and the lining fabric. Also, remember to add about 1" seam allowances on all sides.
- The next thing is to cut your breast pad and iron it very well onto the lining side of the bust area.
- Now, you will iron your hairstay on the lining of the front piece to give you the required firm structure needed for a bustier.
- Then you will sew the front and back pieces of the ankara together at the sides. Do the same for the lining too.
- With that in order, you will place the ankara fabrics and the lining with the right side facing and stitch together.
- Next, use your pressing iron to give it a good press to flatten all the seamlines.
- Now, we will try to get our waist circumference by subtracting the half length from the full gown length, that is, 20"-62" = 42". Then use 42" to cut the flare on both the main ankara fabric and lining.
- At this point you will join the flare pieces together and proceed to attach the flare to the bodice. You will also repeat the process for the lining.
- Attach the zipper and turn the hemline of the ankara gown. For the lining, it was 0.5" shorter than the main fabric, so just turn it and give it a good press.
- Using the 1 yard of flower-patterned fabric, carefully cut out the flowers and iron gum stay on it to give it structure. Next, attach it to the middle of the front piece from top to bottom in a stylish manner using hemming gum.
- Next, use stones to design the edges of the flower to give it a fine look.
- Now, try out the dress on a mannequin to check the fitting.
- Then give it a good press and do other finishing touches.
Thanks for reading and see you in my next one.
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