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In this post I will be sharing with you how I made a corset dress using ankara fabrics and chantilly lace for a customer.
So, take a walk with me as I show you how I made this beautiful dress.
Materials Needed
- 6 yards Ankara
- 4 yards Lining
- 2 yards Chantilly lace
- Tomato trimmings
- Zip
- Breast pad
- Breast cup
- Paper stay
- Hemming Gum
- Matching threads
- Tailoring Chalk
Step by Step
The measurements we used are bust 36', underbust 30', waistline 30', hip 40', gown length 58, bust length 14', half length 19'.
I started off by drafting my corset on a paper and I proceeded to cut my pattern. Then I used the paper that was cut out to cut out ny fabrics by leaving 0.5' on all sides as stitching allowance.
Then I went ahead to use the fabric to cut out the lining and iron paper stay on all the pieces. This process may be quite hectic.
Also, iron the lightest breast pad on the lining and sew each piece of the cup together.
NB: We are working on the upper part of the front piece for now.
Next, iron the stitching allowance properly to prevent bulging on your fabric, then proceed to attach your cup to the actual fabric by ensuring you stretch the fabric by pinning it properly.
Then take the fabric to your sewing machine and sew it round on the edges.
Now you will use hemming gum to attach your channtilly lace to the actual fabric cup. On the underbust side use hemming gum to attach the chantilly lace, you can also use your sewing machine to run it.
You will then use pin to hold the cup to the fabrics and use your sewing machine to attach it to the lower part of the bust.
Repeat this process on your lining but without attaching the chantilly lace and use your lining to turn the actual fabric.
Next, attach the yoke which will form the queen annie's neckline on the corset
Now, it is time to draft the back part of the cloth. Cut out the actual fabric and the lining.
Note that in the front piece we added extra 6' allowance after the waist so that we can have a basque in front, that is, a v-shape.
Next, join the shoulders of the back piece to the front piece and set it aside.
For the skirt part of the dress, we cut the front part and use the front piece to cut the back piece, adding zipper allowance at the back piece.
Then we will cut another front piece - now we have two front piece. Now, open wide the first front piece on the table and trace the midpoint from head to down. This is to create an overlap design at the right side. Using my chalk at the left side of the dress I will take 5' outward and notch it and use my chalk to make a spiral-like design and cut it out. Now, we have the right side of the overlap, so we will need to replicate it on the left side by placing right side facing right side and cut out the same shape.
The right side have four layers while the left side have two layers. So cut a similar spiral-like shape that will stop 3' above the knee and reduce the wideness by 2'. For the forth layer the length will stop at the hip line and use the third layer to cut it out and ensure to reduce the wideness by 2'.
Then cut lining for all these pieces. Now remember the first layer we set aside, bring it back and place your chantilly lace and use hemming gum to attach it all around.
Next, attach lining to the front piece, back piece and all the layers and give it a good press.
Now, put the first layer that has Chantilly lace on the table, then place the second layer on it and use Hemming gum to join it together and use your iron to give a very good press.
Next, head to your sewing machine and sew the edges down so that it won't be moving.
Then bring the upper front piece and place on top of the lower front piece to make the basque for the lower skirt part.
Then join the back piece to the upper back piece and shape it using the person's measurements.
Then attach the sleeves and your dress is ready.
Thanks for reading and see you in my next one.
ABOUT ME
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