Popravka Tomos automatika A3 - Repair of Tomos automatic A3

Hajde da se setimo starih dobrih motore Balkana	Let's remember the good old motorcycles of the Balkans
Svako od nas je uglavnom prvi dodir sa motorom upravo imao sa automatikom ili APN 4. To su bili motori koji su se najvise koristili i bili su najrasprostranjeniji na nasem trzistu, a pogotovo davnih 70-tih godina kada je konkurencija bila mala. Secam se kad sam imao prvi automatik da je sreca u to vreme bila neopisiva i da me vezu lepe uspomene za taj motor. U to vreme ziveo sam na selu i taj motor se vozio svuda pa i po ataru, cak sam napravio prikolicu za njega i prevozio razne stvari,sto je za njega to bilo jako opterecenje ali koga je to bilo briga. Motor je inace namenjen za jednu osobu ali to pravilo se uvek kršilo i zbog toga su se cesto dogadjali kvarovi, ali da nije bilo tih kvarova verovatno nebi posedovao to znanje koje sam stekao vremenom popravljajuci ih. Neka od najvecih mana ovog modela je ta sto se zna cesto pregrejati jer ima samo stublinu koja se hladi u pokretu bez dodatka propelera i dekli koje usmeravaju vazduh ka stublini na primer kao kod apn 4 modela. Pored ovoga cesto su znala da stradaju platinska dugmad koja jednostavno probiju i svecica ne dobija iskru, a ni svecica nije umela dugo da potraje. Svi ti delovi nisu bili nekog kvaliteta pa su i kvarovi bili dosta cesti.	Each of us mostly had our first contact with the engine with automatic or APN 4. These were the engines that were used the most and were the most widespread in our market, especially in the 70's when the competition was small. I remember when I had the first automatic that my happiness at that time was indescribable and that I have fond memories of that motorcycle. At that time I lived in the countryside and that motorbike was driven everywhere, even in Atar, transported various things, which was a heavy burden for him, but who cared. The engine is intended for one person, but this rule was always violated and therefore failures often occurred. I probably wouldn't have the knowledge I gained over time by fixing it. One of the biggest drawbacks of this model is that it can often overheat because it only has a stem that cools in motion without the addition of a propeller and girls that direct the air towards the stem, for example as in the apn 4 model. In addition to this, they often knew that platinum buttons were damaged, which simply broke and the spark plug did not get a spark, and the spark plug could not last long either. All these parts were not of any quality, so the breakdowns were quite common.

Hajde da se setimo starih dobrih motore Balkana

Let's remember the good old motorcycles of the Balkans

Svako od nas je uglavnom prvi dodir sa motorom upravo imao sa automatikom ili APN 4. To su bili motori koji su se najvise koristili i bili su najrasprostranjeniji na nasem trzistu, a pogotovo davnih 70-tih godina kada je konkurencija bila mala.
Secam se kad sam imao prvi automatik da je sreca u to vreme bila neopisiva i da me vezu lepe uspomene za taj motor. U to vreme ziveo sam na selu i taj motor se vozio svuda pa i po ataru, cak sam napravio prikolicu za njega i prevozio razne stvari,sto je za njega to bilo jako opterecenje ali koga je to bilo briga.
Motor je inace namenjen za jednu osobu ali to pravilo se uvek kršilo i zbog toga su se cesto dogadjali kvarovi, ali da nije bilo tih kvarova verovatno nebi posedovao to znanje koje sam stekao vremenom popravljajuci ih. Neka od najvecih mana ovog modela je ta sto se zna cesto pregrejati jer ima samo stublinu koja se hladi u pokretu bez dodatka propelera i dekli koje usmeravaju vazduh ka stublini na primer kao kod apn 4 modela. Pored ovoga cesto su znala da stradaju platinska dugmad koja jednostavno probiju i svecica ne dobija iskru, a ni svecica nije umela dugo da potraje. Svi ti delovi nisu bili nekog kvaliteta pa su i kvarovi bili dosta cesti.

Each of us mostly had our first contact with the engine with automatic or APN 4. These were the engines that were used the most and were the most widespread in our market, especially in the 70's when the competition was small.
I remember when I had the first automatic that my happiness at that time was indescribable and that I have fond memories of that motorcycle. At that time I lived in the countryside and that motorbike was driven everywhere, even in Atar, transported various things, which was a heavy burden for him, but who cared.
The engine is intended for one person, but this rule was always violated and therefore failures often occurred. I probably wouldn't have the knowledge I gained over time by fixing it. One of the biggest drawbacks of this model is that it can often overheat because it only has a stem that cools in motion without the addition of a propeller and girls that direct the air towards the stem, for example as in the apn 4 model. In addition to this, they often knew that platinum buttons were damaged, which simply broke and the spark plug did not get a spark, and the spark plug could not last long either. All these parts were not of any quality, so the breakdowns were quite common.

Popravka prvog kandidata	Correction of the first candidate
U ovom postu imam popravku 2 motora. Na jednom sam menjao zadnju gumu,a na drugom karike. Pocecu od zamene gume koja me pomalo namucila posto je motor toliko zapusten da he na njemu sve bukvalno zardjalo. Guma je toliko dotrajala da se sa strane pocepala i unutrasnja guma je ispala napolje i vidi se, sreca pa je opstala i nije se probusila. Pa da krenemo, motor se prvo digne na nogare, ali u ovom slucaju i oni su neispavni jer nemaju granicnik pa se na ovoj slici vidi da sam od ispod podbacio panj.Zatim sam poprskao wd sprejom obe matice koje zatezu tocak, sacekao malo i sa okastim kljucem 15 mm popustio ih i skinuo zajedno sa podloskama koje su ovalne i koje ustvari sluze da se našteluje koliko da bude zategnut lanac. Kad se skida tocak treba se obratiti paznja da se izvuce iz zljeba fiksni deo kućišta kocnica (pakni) i da se raskaci sajla i naravno da se svuce lanac sa zubčanika.Kad je tocak skinut za demontiranje i montiranje gume su dovoljna 2 šrafcigera ali se mora paziti da se ne osteti unutrasnja guma.Kad sam posle toga montirao novu gumu naduvao sam je i postupak vracanja tocka vam je onda jasan sve se lagano vraca nazad kako se i skinulo da sad nepisem opet sve u sitne detalje.Na ovoj slici se vidi da je i sic u poprilicno losem stanju ali vlasnik kaze da mu to ne smeta i da mu je to potpuno nebitno.Uglavnom sav posao trajao je nekih pola sata i vlasnik je otisao zadovoljan.	In this post, I have a repair of 2 engines. I changed the rear tire on one, and the hoops on the other. I'll start with the replacement of the tire, which bothered me a bit since the engine was so neglected that everything on it literally rusted. The tire was so worn out that it tore on the side and the inner tire fell out and you can see, luckily it survived and did not puncture. so in this picture you can see that I dropped the stump from below. to remove the chain. When removing the wheel, care should be taken to remove the fixed part of the brake housing (locks) and to disengage the cable and of course to remove the chain from the gear. When the wheel is removed to remove and mount the tires are enough 2 screwdrivers, but care must be taken not to damage the inner tire. When I mounted a new tire after that, I inflated it and the procedure of returning the wheel is clear to you. o The picture shows that the car is in a pretty bad condition, but the owner says that he does not mind and that it is completely irrelevant to him. Basically, all the work took about half an hour and the owner left satisfied.

Popravka prvog kandidata

Correction of the first candidate

U ovom postu imam popravku 2 motora. Na jednom sam menjao zadnju gumu,a na drugom karike. Pocecu od zamene gume koja me pomalo namucila posto je motor toliko zapusten da he na njemu sve bukvalno zardjalo. Guma je toliko dotrajala da se sa strane pocepala i unutrasnja guma je ispala napolje i vidi se, sreca pa je opstala i nije se probusila. Pa da krenemo, motor se prvo digne na nogare, ali u ovom slucaju i oni su neispavni jer nemaju granicnik pa se na ovoj slici vidi da sam od ispod podbacio panj.Zatim sam poprskao wd sprejom obe matice koje zatezu tocak, sacekao malo i sa okastim kljucem 15 mm popustio ih i skinuo zajedno sa podloskama koje su ovalne i koje ustvari sluze da se našteluje koliko da bude zategnut lanac. Kad se skida tocak treba se obratiti paznja da se izvuce iz zljeba fiksni deo kućišta kocnica (pakni) i da se raskaci sajla i naravno da se svuce lanac sa zubčanika.Kad je tocak skinut za demontiranje i montiranje gume su dovoljna 2 šrafcigera ali se mora paziti da se ne osteti unutrasnja guma.Kad sam posle toga montirao novu gumu naduvao sam je i postupak vracanja tocka vam je onda jasan sve se lagano vraca nazad kako se i skinulo da sad nepisem opet sve u sitne detalje.Na ovoj slici se vidi da je i sic u poprilicno losem stanju ali vlasnik kaze da mu to ne smeta i da mu je to potpuno nebitno.Uglavnom sav posao trajao je nekih pola sata i vlasnik je otisao zadovoljan.

In this post, I have a repair of 2 engines. I changed the rear tire on one, and the hoops on the other. I'll start with the replacement of the tire, which bothered me a bit since the engine was so neglected that everything on it literally rusted. The tire was so worn out that it tore on the side and the inner tire fell out and you can see, luckily it survived and did not puncture. so in this picture you can see that I dropped the stump from below. to remove the chain. When removing the wheel, care should be taken to remove the fixed part of the brake housing (locks) and to disengage the cable and of course to remove the chain from the gear. When the wheel is removed to remove and mount the tires are enough 2 screwdrivers, but care must be taken not to damage the inner tire. When I mounted a new tire after that, I inflated it and the procedure of returning the wheel is clear to you. o The picture shows that the car is in a pretty bad condition, but the owner says that he does not mind and that it is completely irrelevant to him. Basically, all the work took about half an hour and the owner left satisfied.

A sada malo ozbiljniji oko drugog kandidata	And now a little more serious about the other candidate
A sad da predjemo na drugi motor i drugi kvar a to ke zamena karika. prvo da objasnim kako se manifestuje kvar i zasto je uopste potrebno zameniti karike. Prvo se desava da motor otezano pali a u najgorem slucaju nema upste kompresiju koja je zadovoljavajuca i motor ne moze uopste da upali. Drugi razlog koji se manifestuje kad su lose karike ili istrosene je taj da motor slabo vuce i nema snagu.U ovom nasem slucaju je upravo to bio problem jer komsija mi se zalio da mu motor jako slabo vuce i da mu je nekako spor. Na ovoj slici se vidi da sam imao pomoc drugara. Pa da pocnemo lagano sa opisom. Odmah na pocetku da napisem da se kvar resava veoma lako i brzo i je zameniti karike na ovom modelu bas jednostavno i da cak i ne mora da se poseduje neki specijalni alat. Prvo se skine zica koja dolazi sa bobine na svecicu, onda se kljucem od 10 mm popuste 2 šrafa koji drze auspuh, zatim se uzme gedora sa racvom od 11 mm i popuste se 4 matice koje drze glavu motora a i samu stublinu. kKd se to odradi skine se glava zajedno sa dihtungom a zatim i stublina. Izmedju stubline i samog kucista nalazi se jos jedan dihtung koji obicno propadne ili se pokida u toku demontiranja, naravno stavlja se drugi a moze i da se namaze samo selikon i to onaj koji se koristi i za automobile i radne masine kohi inace trpi temperaturu od 350 stepeni.Kad smo to uradili sad imamo pristup samom klipu sa kojeg vrlo lako skinemo stare karike a isto tako lako montiramo i nove jer jednostavno se sve montira rukama i nije komplikovano. U nekim od sledecih postova mogu i da uslikam i to ili postavim video klip. Kad smo to uradili princip vracanja stubline i glave je jednostavan sve ovo samo kontra i za stezanje svih šrafova nine potreban nikakav moment kljuc, jednostavno se sve stegne odprilike sto bi rekli od oka i tu nema greske.Nadam se da sam bio poprilicno jasan i da vam je ovo bilo zanimljivo. Pozdvav, i ako neko ima neki drugi kvar oko ovog ili nekog slicnog modela motora nek mi slobodno pise.	Now let's move on to the second engine and the second fault, which will be the replacement of the links. First, let me explain how the failure manifests itself and why it is necessary to replace the links. The second reason that manifests itself when the links are bad or worn out is that the engine pulls poorly and has no power. In this case, this was the problem because my neighbor complained that his engine was pulling very poorly and somehow slow. This picture shows that I had the help of a friend. So let’s start lightly with the description. Right at the beginning to write that the fault is solved very easily and quickly and it is easy to replace the links on this model and that you do not even have to have a special tool. 10 mm loosen 2 screws that hold the exhaust, then take a socket with an 11 mm fork and loosen 4 nuts that hold the cylinder head and the stem itself. housing is another seal that usually collapses or breaks during disassembly, of course, put another and can be smeared only silicone, and that is used for cars and work machines that otherwise suffers from a temperature of 350 degrees. we have done that now we have access to the clip itself from which we can easily remove the old links and also easily mount the new ones because everything is simply mounted by hand and it is not complicated. did the principle of returning the stem and head is simple, all this is just a counter and to tighten all the screws nine no torque wrench is needed, just tighten everything roughly as you would say from the eye and there is no mistake. I hope I was pretty clear and this is It was interesting. Greetings, and if anyone has another fault with this or a similar engine model, feel free to write to me.

A sada malo ozbiljniji oko drugog kandidata

And now a little more serious about the other candidate

A sad da predjemo na drugi motor i drugi kvar a to ke zamena karika. prvo da objasnim kako se manifestuje kvar i zasto je uopste potrebno zameniti karike. Prvo se desava da motor otezano pali a u najgorem slucaju nema upste kompresiju koja je zadovoljavajuca i motor ne moze uopste da upali. Drugi razlog koji se manifestuje kad su lose karike ili istrosene je taj da motor slabo vuce i nema snagu.U ovom nasem slucaju je upravo to bio problem jer komsija mi se zalio da mu motor jako slabo vuce i da mu je nekako spor. Na ovoj slici se vidi da sam imao pomoc drugara.

Pa da pocnemo lagano sa opisom. Odmah na pocetku da napisem da se kvar resava veoma lako i brzo i je zameniti karike na ovom modelu bas jednostavno i da cak i ne mora da se poseduje neki specijalni alat. Prvo se skine zica koja dolazi sa bobine na svecicu, onda se kljucem od 10 mm popuste 2 šrafa koji drze auspuh, zatim se uzme gedora sa racvom od 11 mm i popuste se 4 matice koje drze glavu motora a i samu stublinu. kKd se to odradi skine se glava zajedno sa dihtungom a zatim i stublina. Izmedju stubline i samog kucista nalazi se jos jedan dihtung koji obicno propadne ili se pokida u toku demontiranja, naravno stavlja se drugi a moze i da se namaze samo selikon i to onaj koji se koristi i za automobile i radne masine kohi inace trpi temperaturu od 350 stepeni.Kad smo to uradili sad imamo pristup samom klipu sa kojeg vrlo lako skinemo stare karike a isto tako lako montiramo i nove jer jednostavno se sve montira rukama i nije komplikovano. U nekim od sledecih postova mogu i da uslikam i to ili postavim video klip. Kad smo to uradili princip vracanja stubline i glave je jednostavan sve ovo samo kontra i za stezanje svih šrafova nine potreban nikakav moment kljuc, jednostavno se sve stegne odprilike sto bi rekli od oka i tu nema greske.Nadam se da sam bio poprilicno jasan i da vam je ovo bilo zanimljivo.
Pozdvav, i ako neko ima neki drugi kvar oko ovog ili nekog slicnog modela motora nek mi slobodno pise.

Now let's move on to the second engine and the second fault, which will be the replacement of the links. First, let me explain how the failure manifests itself and why it is necessary to replace the links. The second reason that manifests itself when the links are bad or worn out is that the engine pulls poorly and has no power. In this case, this was the problem because my neighbor complained that his engine was pulling very poorly and somehow slow. This picture shows that I had the help of a friend.

So let’s start lightly with the description. Right at the beginning to write that the fault is solved very easily and quickly and it is easy to replace the links on this model and that you do not even have to have a special tool. 10 mm loosen 2 screws that hold the exhaust, then take a socket with an 11 mm fork and loosen 4 nuts that hold the cylinder head and the stem itself. housing is another seal that usually collapses or breaks during disassembly, of course, put another and can be smeared only silicone, and that is used for cars and work machines that otherwise suffers from a temperature of 350 degrees. we have done that now we have access to the clip itself from which we can easily remove the old links and also easily mount the new ones because everything is simply mounted by hand and it is not complicated. did the principle of returning the stem and head is simple, all this is just a counter and to tighten all the screws nine no torque wrench is needed, just tighten everything roughly as you would say from the eye and there is no mistake. I hope I was pretty clear and this is It was interesting.
Greetings, and if anyone has another fault with this or a similar engine model, feel free to write to me.