It's easy to get drunk in France. With all of the wine, beer, and spirits production going on, it's a wonder anything else ever gets done. So when we stopped for what was supposed to be a quick pick-me-up in a small craft cocktail spot... It should be no surprise that I became a tiny bit drunk at Le Petit Bar in Rouen, France.
Rouen has it all. Churches. History. Restaurants. Bars. Murder.
I know; you're intrigued by that last statement. What kind of bars do they have, you're wondering...
No? It was the comment about murder? I'll get to that later...
The thing is, I wasn't supposed to be in Rouen at all. This two-week tour that had taken me through Istanbul, Paris, and Zurich was supposed to include a long weekend in Bordeaux. But... Covid. Our Airbnb host contracted the virus and had to cancel our reservation at the last minute, leaving us with no place to stay. And so, a group decision was made to journey forth to Normandy instead.
Rouen is the provincial capital of Normandy and has been for centuries. In medieval times, Rouen was a political and religious center and was one of the biggest cities in Europe. England, and much of modern-day France, was ruled from Rouen by the Anglo-Norman empires of that time.
And while eventually surpassed by Paris as France's leading city, Rouen still had a few more defining moments to experience before passing the crown to the City of Lights.
William the Conquerer was based out of Rouen when he led his Norman armies across the Channel to conquer England in 1066.
Located on the Seine, Rouen enjoyed economic power over many centuries. Establishing a robust textile manufacturing base, merchants there used the river to ply their trade. Shipping goods both south to lower France and north to the English Channel and beyond.
And during World War II, Rouen was one of the most bombed cities in the occupied Nazi territory. To soften up the German Army before the invasion of Normandy, Rouen was nearly destroyed by Allied bombardment.
Rouen even boasts possessing a piece of Richard the Lionheart, former King of England, which remains entombed in Rouen Cathedral. (Eat your heart out, Paris!)
Oh, and in 1431, a pretty hideous murder. Hang on; we'll get to it.
We had been touring all day; churches, parks, museums, and - more churches. Tired, thirsty, and ready for a break, we began searching for a pleasant spot to enjoy something refreshing. We had just passed a large square and were strolling down Rue Damiette when I spotted an encouraging golden glow emanating from behind a set of French doors. (Insert joke here!)*
Here, in the shadow of the Church of Saint-Maclou, is Le Petit Bar.
With nothing more than a sandwich board in the street to warn potential patrons of its existence, Le Petit Bar draws you in with its simple warmth.
As one enters, it is all sturdy, dark wood and soft, amber light. And smiles.
Running along one wall is a longspun, oaken bar. Behind it, the tools of their trade are displayed in front of mirrored glass under a gently arched recession. From the tin-tiled ceiling hang pedestal lights, the source of that amazing amber glow one sees from the street escaping through the double glass doors.
The floors are a simple checkboard of black and white tile. And yet, they produce a mesmerizing, hypnotic effect, compelling you to enter.
Here, in the front of the establishment, are other patrons are conversing while seated at small yet unyielding wooden cocktail tables with comfortable chairs. In the back, a few more stations are available with cushioned chairs and low-rise tables.
We take a seat in the rear at a soft, cushioned divan with an oversized marble table. We were ready to stretch out and relax in this cozy space, a coterie of comfort.
Moments later, we are greeted by a cheerful, bearded young man behind the bar. While my daughter and her husband exchanged pleasantries in French with the barman, I sat quietly, plucking out a word here and there according to my limited French vocabulary. I offer a 'Bonjour' and a smile; that always seems to work in these situations.
Moments later, the barman returns with three small parchment paper books. These are menus, and they artfully describe the two dozen or so specialty cocktails Le Petit Bar is offering this autumn. Or, for those more adventurous connoisseurs, simply offer a few ingredients and spirits you'd like to entertain your palette with. The bartenders will custom craft a potion for you - la création à la demande...
I open and begin to read my menu; it is in English. Probably because, so too, is my French accent.
My daughter promptly orders a Mayahuel. This tequila and lime cocktail, an obvious take on a Margarita, features a large sprig of fresh rosemary popping out over the rim. And, it's on fire. The barman creates a smoky, herbal contrail that extends from the bar to our table.
As I watch her take the first curious sip, I wonder where she learned to drink tequila... Oh yes, she went to college.
I, predictably, order the All-American. It's a bourbon-infused delight featuring plenty of acidic lemon juice and ginger to compliment the sweet Kentucky corn-mash liquor.
To my delight, a charcuterie is soon brought to the table. Le Petit Bar goes all out in French style, presenting us with a selection of hard and soft cheeses, meats, hummus, bread, and other elements.
As I sip and munch, I further examine our surroundings. Thin, plain planks provide a provincial feel to the olive-colored walls. Also, a dark, velvety wallpaper covered other areas, a floral pattern of peach and dark green. Behind us, a large wall mirror that provided the illusion of space in this otherwise dainty confine.
It's a mostly younger crowd in here. I assume there are tourists, but most seem local to me for unproven reasons. In walking about Rouen, despite the ancient ambiance of the city, it appears to be inhabited by fresh, fashionable French. Only the tourists seem mostly older here.
One drink leads to another, and I find myself consuming something with Gin in it. Since my homemade Gin & Tonics are the absolute best, I rarely order them out. But given the quality and creativity of my bourbon drink, I place my faith in their able hands and order the rough equivalent of a G&T here. It was marvelous!
I cannot imagine witnessing, let alone enduring, the withering barrage of Allied bombardment in this quaint but illustrious city some 75 years ago. With neighboring abodes built side by side, the resulting fires burned Rouen half to the ground before it was over. Only the Seine, flowing silently through the city, could stop the flames from consuming the entire town.
I also cannot imagine Rouen as the center of the French Grand Prix. It was, however, from 1952 until leaving for good in 1968, the site of one of auto racing's premier events. Rouen seems too quiet and far too relaxed to be the host of high-speed competition on their city streets, but perhaps this town of the 1950s and 60s was a lot racier back then.
More drinks, please!
Feeling quite satisfied from the generous charcuterie spread, I was also feeling just a tiny bit drunk at Le Petit Bar in Rouen, France. Bourbon, Gin, and Bitters combined forces - Allies, if you will - to cause me just a tad too much relaxation on our respite from Church watching. Getting up and walking about was bound to be murder on my now satiated self.
Oh, yes! Murder! Let's get to that...
So you see, once upon a time ago, a nineteen-year-old peasant girl named Joan decided to get involved in a war here in France. Joan had visions of Saint Michael visiting her. Those divine interactions convinced her to become intimately engaged on France's behalf in a war they were quickly losing to the English.
Inconceivably, this peasant girl went on to accompany French armies in the field and influence the war strategy itself. So charismatic and passionate as she was, her recommendations and advisories were primarily accepted and used to prosecute the conflict by the professional military men of the day.
Regrettably, Joan was captured in Compiègne while fighting the English, who had laid siege to the city. She was then transported to Rouen to face the leaders of her enemy directly.
In Rouen, the de facto capital of English-held territory in France, Joan of Arc was put on trial. She was found guilty of heresy and burned at stake in the town square, Place du Vieux-Marché.
The trial, later examined both through the written record and by questioning witnesses called initially to testify, was deemed a farce. The English, wishing to extinguish this flower of the French people, ensured her conviction and summarily murdered her in public, hoping to rid themselves of her revolutionary fervor and influence. As martyrdom often goes, however, it had the exact opposite result.
Now, at the site of the Church of St. Joan of Arc, a 65-foot cross marks the spot where she was immolated. A small garden, Le Bouchet, grows there to memorialize this legendary figure of French history.
Although the Hundred Years War would drag on for another twenty years or so, the French eventually won, and Joan became the unlikely national hero of the new nation. Joan of Arc was beatified in 1909 and, in 1920, was canonized as a Saint, herself.
Having finished our delicious drinks and savory snacks, we once again stepped out into the cobblestone streets of Rouen. Making our way back slowly, if not wobbly, to the Rouen-Rive-Droite train station, the Gare de Rouen, we hopped aboard our comfortable coach and settled in for the 100-minute ride home.
Rouen proved to be an able stand-in for a weekend in Bordeaux. While I certainly would have enjoyed our initial plan to tour vineyards, drink copious amounts of dry, red wine, and steep in western France history, Rouen was equally impressive.
Historic, gothic churches. An award-winning museum. Religious and political artifacts and landscapes. Rouen has it all.
And too, it has Le Petit Bar. A quaint, trendy, craft cocktail bar that begs your indulgence for a time while soaking up Rouen's Norman past and panoramas.
Cheers!
*Joke explained: Any door in France is technically a 'French door.' Work with me, please, people...
All photos were taken by the author except those noted.
Resources:
facebook.com/LePetitBarCocktails
wikipedia.org