0x0 Introduction
- Finally, enlightenment It all started with the legendary tale of "Dragon Field Enlightenment." The story is filled with mystique. Suddenly, enlightenment struck. Reality, however, feels even more heart-pounding. Why didn’t I follow the path of the dragon boat rescuer from Zigui (who might not have been saved if someone like Mr. Wang Yangming wasn’t there at the time)? Instead, I embarked on a journey of heart-correction and enlightenment.
0x1 First Encounter with Dragon Field
The Journey Traveling down to Zunyi and crossing the Wujiang River (still reminiscent of Xiang Yu’s refusal to cross it, although not at the same location). The journey included countless tunnels and numerous grand bridges, almost mirroring the Long March (and yes, this is part of the actual Long March route; even with modern highways, it’s an experience only the driver understands). Comparable to "Kora"—"Crossing endless mountains, passing through boundless seas..."—the scenery evokes the spirit of The Lady Shexiang, especially since the destination was Dragon Field Post. Lady Shexiang (a legendary figure whose charisma rivaled that of ten thousand troops) built the station paths and established the nine Dragon Field posts. One of these later provided Mr. Wang Yangming with a titular position for survival.
Dragon Field Post Arriving at the hotel, situated in an antique-style shopping district with restaurants, bars, and even foot massage parlors. Aptly named Dragon Field Post Hotel, it stood opposite the place of enlightenment (I hoped to catch some luck for my own enlightenment). I asked the receptionist, "Do you provide park tickets?" "No!" Eventually, seeing that I was alone, they gave me a half-price ticket.
Doing Laundry Finally settled into a "single room." After entering, I immediately showered and washed my clothes (having sweated through multiple layers on the drive). Ready for a pilgrimage, I spent half an hour cleaning myself and my clothes. Sitting in a bathrobe, looking at a blue leather edition of "Records of Teaching and Learning" by Xu Ai and bamboo slips inscribed with quotes like "Knowing Conscience" and "Unity of Knowledge and Action," I felt hunger after the cleaning ordeal. I headed out, grabbed a local pancake (thankfully not a "chief's cake") for a snack, and then enjoyed a bowl of beef noodles (why does rice noodle soup always make my heart race afterward?).
0x2 Discovering the World in a Cave
- Mystical Atmosphere The park entrance exuded misty vibes, with eight grand pillars representing various schools, such as "Central Guizhou School," "Jiangyou School," and "Southern Central School." I couldn’t help but wonder if these were funded by descendants of those schools, but upon closer inspection, the names carved were all long deceased. What a massive sect it once was! Yet now, the sacred learning of the sages has been severed. Stepping into the space with the eight Confucian goals, I began the journey.
Turning Right to the Memorial Hall This type of cultural site mainly features memorial halls and museums. Not knowing much about the rest, I focused on these areas. The memorial hall showcased Mr. Wang Yangming’s life, his major philosophical transformations, and the spread of his teachings. Passing through three arches engraved with phrases from "The Great Learning," one could sense his turbulent yet impactful life. My own emergency led me to dash to the restroom before eventually arriving at the phrase: "With a heart as bright as this, what more need be said?"
True "Immortality" Exiting the museum, I encountered the stone of "Three Immortals"—Virtue, Achievement, and Words. Truly, how many can achieve such immortality? In history, contemporary "Three Immortals" might be easier to find (many achieved it). Yet true posterity depends on future generations' needs.
What’s Humble About It? Ascending the steps, I encountered the reconstructed "Humble Pavilion" (a shabby brick house, far less appealing than a straw hut restoration). Nearby was Yangming Cave, now floored with tiles but likely overrun by weeds in the past. Arriving with no shelter, Mr. Yangming lived in a cave, caring for his sick servant while even local tribespeople felt compelled to help him build a thatched hut. Yet he wrote: "What’s humble about where a gentleman resides?" penning the essay "The Humble Pavilion Chronicle" (a subtle form of boasting in essay form).
Mysteries in the Ancestral Hall Atop the mountain lay the ancestral hall and a Buddhist temple (true to the saying, "Famous mountains are often occupied by monks"). Inside the ancestral hall were statues of predecessors, flanked by two fresh flower bouquets. However, the side rooms surprisingly featured wax figures of Zhang Xueliang and Miss Zhao Si—startling! After his "carrying the birch rod" incident, Zhang was also detained here. Such is fate; once a man of immense power, he ended up reflecting in this place.
Cabbage Gardens The expansive Yangming Cultural Park felt huge. Likely due to maintenance costs, part of the site was fenced off, and tickets were sold separately for the preserved areas. Other parts resembled an open park. Oddly, much of the surrounding garden area had been turned into cabbage fields.
Dragon Field Stable The park was so vast that I wandered for ages without finding another exit. Even riversides were fenced off. Many areas remained unrestored, with bridges closed and paths blocked. After much wandering, I stumbled upon the new Dragon Field Stable. Recently constructed, it was overgrown with weeds and scattered with leaves. Its only signage was a simple post. Interestingly, the ambiance felt authentic to its historical context—a wild, makeshift survival spot with just a plaque.
0x3 Reflections on Play and Change
- Navigating Before coming, I had only heard of "Dragon Field Enlightenment" and not "Play and Change Shelter." Upon arrival, I noticed signposts revealing that Mr. Wang Yangming first lived in this even smaller, shabbier cave before moving to the slightly larger Yangming Cave two kilometers away. Here, he wrote "Play and Change Shelter Chronicle" (another subtle boast in essay form). Were it not for the existence of this document, this place might have vanished long ago.
0x6 END
- The end... the end... the end...