Welcome back to my Brazilian travel journal! Let me take you to another place where you’d hardly run into a foreigner—perfect for travelers like us. The coastal town of São Sebastião is the only gateway to Ilhabela, which I covered in my last few Brazilian posts. Regional and interstate buses drop you at the ferry port if you plan to visit the island, so many people skip the town altogether. Others take advantage of its more affordable accommodations and restaurants, staying here and catching the free pedestrian ferry—running 24/7—to the island. Rumour has it, though, that the beaches around São Sebastião—particularly the two bays southeast of town—easily rival those of Ilhabela. I can’t judge; we skipped them.
Frankly, we almost skipped São Sebastião too, focusing solely on Ilhabela—if not for our host’s recommendations. At first glance, the town might seem like a dull industrial harbour with little to offer. But leave the port behind and stroll along the promenade—your opinion will change. It's a foodie’s paradise. Starving after exploring the waterfalls (and drooling like Pavlov’s dogs), we passed dozens of restaurants and bars before reaching the venue we were recommended, Família Restaurante, at the far end of the promenade. It was worth the walk. Just one caveat: the portions are enormous. Order one meal for two, and you’ll barely make a dent. We shared two whole fish with fried plantain, a bowl of sauce, and another of rice—allegedly a menu for one. They even provide extra plates so you can mix everything yourself.
They also serve beer from “the best craft brewery on the north coast,” as the menu proudly declares. What a coincidence, huh?
Since Brazil is known for its coffee and cocoa plantations, we couldn’t resist a sweet treat (also, it was still raining when we’d finished our meal, so we didn't feel like walking—valid excuse, right?). Sereia, or “Mermaid,” was impossible to pass up. And not just because of her song.
Now, about the town itself—as our bus departed late at night, we only had a brief wander. Though Brazil is often perceived as dangerous after dark, São Sebastião felt safe. Homeless people do camp in the local amphitheatre, and there are a few nooks best avoided, but nothing to actually worry about.
Separated from the mainland by a mountain range that catches the Atlantic winds and rains, São Sebastião has kept its colonial architecture, with the baroque Church of São Sebastião as its most significant landmark.
Since it was Christmas, a nativity scene stood in front. However, Baby Jesus was missing.
Fortunately, the old town looked classy despite the persistent drizzle.
Camara Municipal, the townhall.
Before heading to the bus station, we roamed the pier with old cannons guarded by a whale so dangerous it needed to be caged.
Ilhabela loomed in the background, its peaks just peering above the clouds.
And, of course, there were Christmas lights.
And that’s it for São Sebastião. Next stop: Rio de Janeiro. Time to be a bit touristy for a change!
