Doing a bit of these touristy things is sometimes inevitable. Still, you can do it in style, which is what we did when we tackled Pão de Açúcar, or Sugarloaf Mountain. This iconic Rio de Janeiro landmark peaks at some 400 meters above sea level, offering views of the city and even the Cristo Redentor statue, if the clouds don't get in your sight. The easy option is to take the cable car straight from the base and be at the top in minutes. The alternative is to hike up Urca Hill to the cable car's middle station. The trail ends there; reaching the summit on foot requires rock-climbing gear and expertise—and isn't officially permitted anyway as Sugarloaf Mountain is a declared natural reserve.
The short hike begins easily on a seaside promenade, but soon you come across warnings about venomous animals. Then you reach a tiny chapel. It might make you wonder if it's really safe to venture into the vegetation.
Well, it seemed to be. However, the ascent was all slippery, and people coming down the path often looked quite battered. It’s not the ideal trail for the rainy season, especially if you dare tackling it in unsuitable shoes, or even flip flops – the typical footwear of Brazil. That wasn't an issue for me, though. I had my proper hiking boots on and managed to scamper up with the grace of a mountain goat. Seriously, not bragging!
Urca Hill is the highest point you can get to for free (not that the cable car is particularly expensive), and many people don't continue all the way to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain. For some reason, there also seems to be heavy tractor traffic.
You'll find a couple of reasonably priced restaurants (at least from a European perspective) and obligatory gift shops, a small nook with beehives, and you can even rent a helicopter for a private flight over the city. For just about $200 if I recall it well.
I also stumbled upon an unexpected find for Beersaturday here, but that’s a story for another post.
It was quite windy, which made the second cable car ride feel a bit adventurous. I associate these cable cars with skiing in the Alps where I take them frequently, so a bit of swaying and swinging didn't bother me. Some of my fellow passengers, however, seemed uneasy with the extra shot of adrenaline and were visibly relieved when we reached the solid ground. And you’d hardly find something more solid than granite and quartz.
Sugarloaf's summit was shrouded in clouds when we arrived, and it was incredibly windy—hardly a surprise for a monolith jutting out of the ocean. We could just make out the famous Christ statue peaking from the clouds every now and then (as you might too, if you look closely at my photos). Still, I enjoyed the far side of the peak more; it's forested and serves as a nesting ground for seabirds.
The ride back down took us through the clouds and was even bumpier and more turbulent than the ride up. Some people even turned a shade paler than the clouds themselves—which is really saying something, considering how quickly you get a tan in Rio.
While Rio boasts several world-famous beaches—which I'll take you to in a future post—Praia Vermelha (Red Beach) somewhat stands in their shadow. Good for it – it’s a rather small one. Which makes it the perfect spot to cool off after a sweaty hike to Sugarloaf, or just to chill. It's usually uncrowded, and the sand really does take on a deeper red hue when you're lying on it. Besides, I enjoyed the view looking back up at the mountain.
