These chronicles will tell my travel experience in Central America. 6 months in post pandemic period, where I traveled through 6 countries by bicycle, ride and motorcycle. I hope you enjoy it; I am passionate about sharing so much natural beauty and road magic.
All content is original and of my own authorship. The photos are my property, taken with my cell phone (if occasionally not, I will place the respective source below it).
Estas crónicas contarán mi experiencia de viaje por centroamérica. 6 meses en período post pandemico, donde viajé por 6 países a bicicleta, dedo y moto. Espero lo disfruten; me apasiona compartir tanta belleza natural y magia de ruta.
Todo el contenido es original y de propia autoría. Las fotos son de mi propiedad, tomadas con mi celular (si ocasionalmente así no fuera, colocaré respectiva fuente debajo de ella).
CHAPTER 1 // CAPITULO 1: MÉXICO
From Brazil 👁️ 🇧🇷 (Morro de São Pablo, Bahia) to Mexico 🇲🇽 (Bacalar, Quintana Roo).
After overcoming the worst of the pandemic, we were in Morro de São Pablo, Brazil. We had spent the summer season working in a tourism agency, and at the same time giving some time for the chips to keep moving 🍃. We were traveling by motorhome, and the goal was to reach Mexico; how to do it if all borders were closed? ❌
Suddenly an idea was born: to go to Central America in one leap ✈️. Leave our van parked at home, Brazil (where it was bought), and fly to the North of the globe. The hardest part of the whole decision, was letting go of the form 🔆. A year ago the motorhome lifestyle had given us too many pleasures to abandon it so quickly. But for this traveling spirit, diving back into the Caribbean and getting to know it from end to end was worth the risk 💪🏾. Nothing would go wrong, if we were confident in our power and experience.
We chatted with a friend who had been living in Mexico for some time, and she confirmed that she was waiting for us at her house with all the joy in the world. Excited by the decision, I did not hesitate to jump into the water, do it with all my might! I proposed to my partner that we try cycling through Central America 🚲; after all, the distances were much smaller than in South America, and to start from scratch, it was a coveted first step 😅. The adventure and the feeling that it was crazy, made it even more tempting.
As if it wasn't good enough, Mexico was one of the most relaxed countries with restrictions by Covid, and that was a great sign that we were going in that direction 🙊.
We organized where to leave well and cared for our house on wheels 🥺, selected flight date, and gave ourselves to the extreme of this change 🐣.
We would be received in Bacalar, Quintana Roo state. We had savings to arrive, get the bikes, equip ourselves with tent, mattress, kitchen, basic tools; more than enough to take courage and take charge of our dreams 🎯.
We flew on May 1st, Labor Day, honoring our traveling profession. We arrived in Mexico City with some trepidation about being admitted. We were advised that Argentines in many cases were rejected because after their legal time of stay as tourists, they put down roots illegally. We would present a self-cancelable return flight, traveler's insurance that was not valid because it was not paid, our savings (500/600 USD), a self-cancelable hotel reservation through Booking, a valid passport, a carry-on baggage for each of us and we would face our destination 🦄.
👁️ De Brasil 🇧🇷 (Morro de São Pablo, Bahía) a México 🇲🇽 (Bacalar, Quintana Roo)
Tras superar el peor momento de la pandemia, nos encontrábamos en Morro de São Pablo, Brasil. Habíamos transcurrido la temporada de verano trabajando en una agencia de turismo, y a su vez dando un tiempo a que las fichas se sigan moviendo 🍃. Viajábamos en motorhome, y el objetivo era llegar hasta México; como lograrlo si todas las fronteras se encontraban cerradas? ❌
De repente nace una idea: ir a Centroamérica de un salto ✈️. Dejar estacionada nuestra camioneta en su casa, Brasil (donde fue comprada), y volar hacia el Norte del globo. Lo más difícil de toda la desición, fue soltar la forma🔆. Hace un año el estilo de vida de motorhome nos había regalado demasiados placeres como para abandonarlo tan rápido. Pero para este espiritu viajero, volver a sumergirme en el caribe y conocerlo de punta a punta, valía el riesgo 💪🏾. Nada saldría mal, si confiabamos en nuestro poder y experiencia.
Charlamos con una amiga radicada en México hace tiempo, y confirmó que nos esperaba en su casa con toda la alegría del mundo. Emocionada por la desición, no dude ante lanzarme al agua, hacerlo con toda! Propuse a mi compañero, que probemos de bicicleta por centroamérica 🚲; después de todo eran distancias mucho más pequeñas que en América del Sur, y para arrancar de cero, era un codiciado primer paso 😅. La aventura y la sensación de que era una locura, lo hacía más tentador aún.
Cómo si no fuera lo suficientemente bueno, México era de los países más relajados con restricciones por Covid, y eso era una gran señal de que vayamos en esa dirección 🙊.
Organizamos donde dejar bien y cuidada a nuestra casa con ruedas 🥺, selecionamos fecha de vuelo, y nos entregamos a lo extremo de este cambio 🐣
Seríamos recibidos en Bacalar, estado de Quintana Roo. Teníamos ahorros para llegar, conseguir las bicis, equiparnos con carpa, colchon, cocina, herramientas básicas; más que suficiente para tomar coraje y hacernos cargo de nuestros sueños 🎯.
Volamos el 1ero de Mayo, Día del Trabajador, haciendo honor a nuestra profesion viajera. Llegamos al DF con algún temor sobre ser admitidos. Fuimos avisados que los argentinos en muchos casos eran rechazados porque pasado su tiempo legal de permanencia como turistas, hechaban raíces ilegalmente. 🕵🏼♀️Presentaríamos vuelo autocancelable de vuelta, emisión de seguro al viajero que no era válida porque no estaba paga, los ahorros (500/600 USD), reserva también autocancelable de hotel por Booking, pasaporte vigente, un equipaje de mano por cada uno y enfrentaríamos nuestro destino 🦄.
👁️ Bacalar, just the beggining
Indeed, we were approved with 90 days of tourists. We flew to Chetumal, and hugged Luz, whom I had not seen for 3 years. That same afternoon, there was an obligatory trip to the lagoon of the 7 colors 🙊. A beauty on another level.
While we were manifesting day by day what we needed to start, we planned a visit to Mahahual, first destination of the longed-for Caribbean💦. This jewel was normally visited by cruise ships, but due to the pandemic, not many visitors arrived; for us it was a great moment to visit it quietly.
About 100km from town, it was love at first sight. We spent 3 days in pure sunshine and celebration of what we had conquered; our eyes shone with joy at those paradisiacal waters💫.
On the other hand, from this getaway, we decided that the first route to travel would be the 67 km from Mahahual to Xckalak.
Between getting to know the surroundings of the magical town, it took us a month of preparation to get the bikes, equip them and take courage to start the first period. June 3rd, before dawn, we left the house that welcomed us to Costa Maya. I was totally surprised by my physical condition👏, although I knew that my biggest challenge would be my mental state of confidence and perseverance to not give up in the face of discomfort or difficulty; on the other hand my partner began to suffer faster in his body, although more stable psychologically. It was the hottest period of the season, and with a big smile we put body, soul and heart to the challenge 😎.
👁️ Bacalar, solo el comienzo
Efectivamente, fuimos aprobados con 90 días de turistas. Volamos hasta Chetumal, y nos abrazamos con Luz, que no veía hace 3 años. Esa misma tarde, hubo salida obligada a la laguna de los 7 colores🙊. Una belleza a otro nivel.
Mientras manifestabamos día a día lo necesario para arrancar, planificamos una visita a Mahahual, primer destino del ansiado caribe💦. Esta joya normalmente era visitado por cruceros, pero por pandemia no llegaban muchos visitantes; para nosotros un gran momento para recorrerlo tranquilo.
A unos 100km del pueblo, fue amor a primera vista. Pasamos 3 días a puro sol y celebración de lo conquistado; nuestros ojos brillaban de júbilo ante esas aguas paradisíacas💫.
Por otro lado, a partir de esta escapada, decidimos que la primer ruta a transitar serían los 67 km. que recorrer desde Mahahual hasta Xckalak.
Entre conocer las cercanías del pueblo mágico, nos llevó un mes de preparación conseguir las bicis, equiparlas y tomar coraje para iniciar el primer período. 3 de Junio, antes del amanecer, salíamos de la casa que nos acogió con destino a la Costa Maya. Quedé totalmente sorprendida de mi estado físico👏, aunque sabía que mi mayor reto sería mi estado mental de confianza y perseverancia a no desistir ante la incomodidad o dificultad; por su parte mi compañero comenzó a sufrirlo más rápido en su cuerpo, aunque más estable psicológicamente. Era el período mas caluroso de la temporada, y con una gran sonrisa poníamos cuerpo, alma y corazón al desafío 😎.
👁️ First and last Bicicleteada
We arrived in two days; exhausted, but very happy; the adrenaline of the beginning boosted us 😌.
We saw again those longed-for waters ahead of us and we were drooling🤤. We enjoyed a few days sleeping on the beach under the open sky, and set off on our way to Xckalak. We wouldn't know how much the sargassum was affecting us along the route, nor the actual state of the road.
It was hard to get out because the heat was too much and we began to remember how happy we were motorized where we could always be dynamic and move agile, comfortable and easily😈.
We had a great desire to continue getting to know each other, so we woke up early to pedal.
The plan was to ride 38km to Xahuayxol, another recommended beach. There was a main road, but it added many extra kms. to the route; we chose the alternative, where we did not go far from the coast, which was the most powerful magnet of motivation🌴 .
A few hours later, we were dead thirsty, exhausted and anxious to arrive; we were advancing slowly and to make matters worse, even though we took several precautions, we flattened a tire too often 😫 and it had become a bit tiresome. The fantasy of advancing fresh thanks to the coastal wind and the thousand times we would enter the sea was fading like a mirage 🥵; instead, we began to feel afraid of not reaching the goal, and that worry did not help at all.
I cried from hunger, tiredness and discomfort, literally😭. It seemed that we didn't get there anymore, and we had the tiredness of the whole day on our backs. We started to drink a lot of coconut water, which allowed us to survive despite not being at all organized or aware of the importance of being well fed. Thanks to the psychological support of my compa, we conquered the last stretch to our destination🌈.
We didn't have much money and we bargained price in the only campsite in the area with wi-fi access, a necessary tool to generate more money.
The next 3 days were a gift🎁 and made the effort worthwhile. Martin met locals with whom to share fishing with his spearfishing, and I enjoyed practicing yoga in front of the sea while allowing myself to reflect wondering what to do, is this what I really wanted? 🙄I felt limited by the circumstances, and very turned off by the feeling of not knowing if I could or wanted to continue cycling; I was angry that I thought I was weak for giving up so quickly😫.
After this break we left for Xkcalak early, although I was afraid it would be worse. We went with the intention of giving ourselves one last chance👻.
Arrived the time to cross the river, without much escape after two boats gave us the negative, we managed to cross getting everything on a boat🛶. The sky was threatening to close and we were encouraged to ride until we arrived. Such a surprise to arrive to such an energetically depressed place. Although its surroundings maintained an incomparable beauty, in the center it was difficult to imagine spending the night among so much desolation📴.
We went back before it was impossible⛈️, after confirming that there was no campsite available (there wasn't). From the experience of the last stretch, leaving the town I got a ride that happily took us to the previous beach, where we returned for the next day back to Mahahual 🤟🏾.
That night it rained like never before, our tent sank, we got soaked🤯, we were cold and did not sleep; plus the day started with a wave of mosquitoes IN-SO-POR-TA-BLES.
We conversed, I exposed that I didn't want to suffer anymore and that we got out of the survival feeling. Exchanging possible alternatives, I calmly remembered that something good could happen🌻.
👁️ Primer y última Bicicleteada
Llegamos en dos días; agotados, pero muy felices; la adrenalina del início nos potenciaba 😌
Volviamos a ver esas aguas tan anheladas adelante nuestro y se nos caía la baba🤤. Disfrutamos unos días durmiendo en la playa a cielo abierto, y emprendimos camino a Xckalak. No sabríamos que tanto afectaba el sargazo a lo largo de la ruta, ni el estado real de la misma.
Nos costaba salir porque el calor era mucho y empezamos a recordar lo felices que éramos motorizados donde siempre pudimos ser dinámicos y trasladarnos ágil, comoda y facilmente😈.
Teníamos mucho deseo de seguir conociendo, asíque igualmente amanecimos temprano para pedalear.
El plan era realizar 38km hasta Xahuayxol, otra playa recomendada. Había un camino principal por ruta, pero sumaba muchos kms. extras al trayecto; escogimos el alternativo, donde no nos alejábamos de la costa, que era el imán más potente de motivación🌴 .
A las pocas horas, estabamos muertos de sed, agotados y ansiosos por llegar; avanzabamos lentamente y para colmo aunque tomamos varias precauciones, ponchabamos alguna rueda demasiado seguido 😫 y se habia vuelto algo fastidioso el asunto. La fantasía de avanzar frescos gracias al viento costero y las mil veces que entraríamos al mar se desvanecía como un espejismo 🥵; en cambio, comenzamos a sentir miedo de no alcanzar la meta, y esa preocupación no ayudaba en nada.
Lloré de hambre, cansancio e incomodidad, literalmente😭. Parecía que no llegábamos más, y teníamos el cansancio de todo el día en las espaldas. Empezamos a beber muchisima agua de coco, lo cual permitió sobrevivir a pesar de no estar para nada organizados ni conscientes de la importancia de estar bien alimentados. Gracias al apoyo psicológico de mi compa, conquistamos el último tramo hasta nuestro destino🌈.
No contábamos con mucho dinero y regateamos precio en el único camping del área con acceso a wi-fi, herramienta necesaria para generar más dinero.
Los 3 días siguientes fueron un regalo🎁 e hicieron valer el esfuerzo. Martín conoció nativos con quienes compartir pescas con su arpón, y yo disfrutaba de practicar yoga frente al mar mientras me permitía reflexionar preguntándome qué hacer, esto es lo que realmente quería? 🙄Me sentía limitada por las circunstancias, y muy apagada ante la sensación de no saber si podría o quería continuar viajando en bicicleta; me enojaba creerme débil por abandonar tan rápido😫.
Luego de este descanso partimos hacia Xkcalak temprano, aunque tenía miedo de que sea peor. Fuimos con la intención de darnos una última oportunidad👻.
Llegada la hora de cruzar el río, sin mucha escapatoria luego que dos embarcaciones nos dieron la negativa, conseguimos cruzar subiendo todo a un bote🛶. El cielo amenzaba cerrándose y nos animamos a hacer ride con hasta llegar. Semejante sorpresa arribar a un tan deprimido energéticamente. Si bien sus cercanías mantenian una belleza incomparable, en el centro era difícil imaginarte pasando la noche entre tanta desolación📴.
Retomamos la vuelta antes que sea imposible⛈️, luego de confirmar que no encontrábamos camping disponible (no existía). A partir de la experiencia del último tramo, saliendo del pueblo conseguí un ride que feliz nos llevaba hasta la playa anterior, donde volvimos para al día siguiente volver a Mahahual 🤟🏾.
Esa noche llovió como nunca antes, nuestra carpa se hinundó, nosotros nos empapamos🤯, pasamos frío y no dormimos; además el día comenzó con una ola de mosquitos IN-SO-POR-TA-BLES.
Conversamos, expuse que no quería sufrir más y que salgamos de la sensación de supervivencia. Intercambiando posibles alternativas, recordé con tranquilidad que algo bueno podría pasar🌻.
👁️ Exchanging opened doors for us.
Everything is perfect, I say and they say. Indeed, there was a host on the Workaway platform that welcomed us and our help fit him like a glove 💍. We are creators of reality, our biggest dream was (and is), to have a motorhome to travel Central America the way we like the most, and guess what? Our stay in "Travel Inn - Pousada Restaurante" was in a motorhome parked years ago.... Coincidence 😍.
The trust and camaraderie with Justa and Albert grew day by day.
Our tasks ranged from taking care of the external maintenance, deep cleaning of the restaurant, collaborating with the 3 dogs, and different arrangements for maintenance of the place.
"Travel Inn" is a restaurant 🍽️ that you will find south of Mahahual with 5 star reviews; it offers DELICIOUS😋 international dishes, with an almost luxury lodging option, being that it is a self-sustainably sustained space (solar energy, rain water, and several other environmental impact cares); located in front of the sea with its own beach far from the center and very enjoyable🌟.
Unfortunately at that time it was also not possible to swim there because of sargasso, but I can assure you that the peaceful energy of the place is good for the soul. The days passed and we were in love with the place💎, it quickly felt like home. On free days we would visit the town where they cleaned the beaches and we would receive a pleasant sea bath. The classic was to eat chicken that comes with noodles and rice with beans and coconut, or make us sandwiches of avocado, tomato and lemon. What mattered most was to contemplate as much of the day as possible, that blue sea and submerge ourselves fantasizing about our happiness for being there.
We spent 2 months living in front of the caribbean🌅, enjoying our work, sharing international flavors, accompanied by the affection of the herd, and collaborating and exchanging experiences with this appreciated couple that in their time traveled through many countries as well.
Between calm and enjoyment, a new idea awake💡: sell the bikes and travel by motorcycle. It sounded as crazy as the previous plan, so of course I agreed.
The investment possibility was low, but the courage and faith were gigantic! We got an Italika 125cc for 200usd by marketplace 🛵. We named it Ruby for its color, and in honor of Rubia one of the local bitches, for whom we cried as we said goodbye and detached ourselves from her.
A new stage was beginning as we said goodbye to Mahahual with a desire to return ALWAYS if possible. 💋
👁️ Intercambiar nos abrió puertas
Todo es perfecto, digo y dicen. Efectivamente hayamos un host por la plataforma Workaway que nos recibía y nuestra ayuda le calzaba como anillo al dedo 💍. Somos creadores de realidad, nuestro mayor sueño era (y es), conseguir tener un motorhome para recorrer centroamérica del modo que más nos gusta, y adivinen que? Nuestra estadía en "Travel Inn - Pousada Restaurante" fue en una motorhome estacionada hace años... Coincidencia 😍.
La confianza y camaradería con Justa y Albert creció día a día.
Nuestras tareas iban desde cuidar del mantenimiento externo, limpieza profunda del restaurant, colaborar con los 3 perros, y diferentes arreglos para mantención del lugar.
"Travel Inn" es un restaurante 🍽️ que encontrarán al Sur de Mahahual con críticas de 5 estrellas; ofrece platos internacionales DELICIOSOS😋, con opción de hospedaje casi de lujo, siendo que es un espacio sostenido autosustentablemente (energía solar, agua de lluvia, y varios otros cuidados de impacto al medioambiente); ubicado frente al mar con una playa propia alejada del centro y estupendamente disfrutable🌟.
Lamentablemente en esa época también no era posible tomar baño allí mismo por sargazo, pero aseguro completamente que la energía pacífica del lugar hacen bien al alma. Los días pasaban y nosotros estábamos enamorados del lugar💎, rápidamente se sentía como en casa. Los días libres visitábamos el pueblo donde limpiaban las playas y recibíamos un placentero baño de mar. El clásico era comer pollo que viene acompañado de fideos y arroz con poroto y coco, o hacernos sandwich de palta tomate y limón. Lo que más importaba era contemplar la mayor cantidad del día posible, ese mar azul y sumergirnos fantasiando sobre nuestra dicha por estar ahí.
Pasamos 2 meses viviendo frente al caribe🌅, disfrutando nuestras labores, compartiendo sabores internacionales, acompañados del cariño de la manada, y colaborándonos e intercambiando experiencias con esta apreciada pareja que en su tiempo viajo por muchos países también.
Entre la calma y el disfrute, otra idea despierta 💡: vender las bicis y viajar de moto. Sonaba tan alocado como el plan anterior, asíque por supuesto accedí.
La posibilidad de inversión era baja, pero el coraje y la fe gigantes!. Conseguimos una Italika 125 cilindradas a 200usd por marketplace 🛵. La llamamos Rubí por su color, y en honor a Rubia una de las perras del lugar, por quien lloramos al despedirnos y desapegarnos de ella.
Una nueva etapa comenzaba mientras nos despedimos de Mahahual con deseo de volver SIEMPRE que sea posible. 💋
👁️ To be continued.
Now if we could dream of traveling the Caribbean and not die trying with Ruby as part of the team ⚡.
The essential and challenging thing would be to manage to put it in our name, being that in a country where the laws can become finite, there were authorities who argued that it was not possible, while travelers shared how they had succeeded even as tourists🤷. We returned to Bacalar to reassemble the departure that this time was not to return.
Much of the team that accompanied us on the bike, came on the bike. We rode it in our do-it-yourself style. Martin built some recycled wooden saddlebags, where we carried kitchen and utensils, tools, first aid kit, cleaning and hygiene essentials, 1 pair of sneakers or sandals (depending on what we were wearing at the time). The inflatable mattress along with our rain jackets was on top of the tank. In the back a backpack with the papers of the bike and ours, along with a few changes of clothes. We bought some waterproof cloth at the hardware store, and had a custom-made cover for each package... And that was it! Ready to go on the road again! 👑
From here we left to try to cross the border to Belize, although we knew they were hostile. If not, we would continue on to Guatemala. The north coast of the Caribbean would be for another opportunity ✳️.
👁️ Continuará
Ahora si podríamos soñar con recorrer el caribe y no morir en el intento con Rubí como parte del equipo ⚡.
Lo imprescindible y desafiante sería lograr ponerla a nuestro nombre, siendo que en un país donde la leyes pueden volverse finitas, había autoridades que exponían que no era posible, mientras viajeros compartían como sí lo habían logrado incluso siendo turistas🤷. Volvimos a Bacalar a rearmar la partida que esta vez era para no volver.
Mucho del equipo que nos acompañó en bicicleta, vino en la moto. La montamos a nuestro estilo "hagalo usted mismo". 👷Martín construyó unas alforjas de madera reciclada, donde viajaban cocina y utensillos, herramientas, botiquin, básico de limpieza e higiene, 1 par de zapatillas o sandálias (depende lo que calzabamos en ese momento). El colchon inflable junto a nuestras camperas para lluvia iba encima del tanque. Detrás una mochila con los papeles de la moto y nuestros, junto a contadas mudas de ropa. Compramos tela impermeable en la ferreteria, y mandamos a cocer a medida un cobertor para cada bulto... Y listo! Prontos para salir a viajar nuevamente! 👑
De aquí salimos a intentar cruzar frontera con Belize, aunque sabíamos que estaban hostiles. Caso negativo, seguiríamos hacia Guatemala. La costa norte del caribe quedaría para otra oportunidad ✳️.
⚠️ REMARKS:
📍The dot on the pinmapple map corresponds to my favorite beach for relaxing and swimming in town.
Outstanding places of interest:
✓ Bacalar (I advise also to visit Cenote Azul, Huay-pix, Xul-ha).
✓ Mahahual
✓ Xahuayxol
⚠️OBSERVACIONES:
📍El punto en el mapa de pinmapple corresponde a mi playa preferida para relajar y bañarse en el pueblo.
Lugares de interés destacados:
✓ Bacalar (aconsejo también visitar Cenote Azul, Huay-pix, Xul-ha)
✓ Mahahual
✓ Xahuayxol