Hello my friends. Last April I spent two wonderful days in Parma. We stayed overnight at a hotel here. Hotel Stendhal a four-star establishment located in the historic center, within the traffic-restricted zone. Our room overlooked an interior courtyard. It was a lovely courtyard, not quite like the small gardens you find in Rome, but overall my first impression of the place was very positive. As soon as we settled in, we started exploring the streets of Parma.
Actually I had a pretty packed cultural itinerary, but time was limited. I wanted to visit all the museums, while my friend said "You go to the museums. I’ll lose myself among the Prosciutto and Parmigiano products in the shops". These two products are the most famous gastronomic specialties of Parma.
I mentioned earlier that our hotel was right in the city center. Passing through an archway, we reached one of the main squares where there’s a monument dedicated to Giuseppe Verdi. He was born in a suburb of Parma. One of the key sites is Palazzo della Pilotta, which houses an art gallery and an archaeological museum. Of course, I wanted to go there, but first I needed to check if the museums were open because April 25th is a special holiday in Italy.
We started walking. As psychologists say: if you hesitate to do something, start by taking small steps. I tried to convince my friend: Come on, let's at least go see if there's a queue at the entrance". In reality, the real purpose of this trip was simply to walk around, breathe in the air and get away from tourist crowds. Some of my best times were spent in the center of Florence, but Florence is always full of tourists. That’s why I wanted to relax and enjoy Parma without rush. If I really wanted to visit only the museum, I could have come another day by train or car. But still, I had hope. I was trying to persuade my friend. We agreed to walk around a bit first, maybe stop by a park to enjoy some nature and then head to the museum later. In the evening we would go to the restaurant we’d booked. Afterward, we planned to wander around the Cathedral Square and also make sure to visit the Teatro Regio, though I wasn’t sure how we’d fit it all in.
Unfortunately, the lake nearby was closed, blocked by the railways. We couldn't see its inner beauty. Later, we set off toward the museum.
The Pilotta Palace hosts several collections: the National Art Gallery and the Archaeological Museum. First, we visited the Archaeological Museum, which features a wide-ranging collection tracing human history: artifacts from the Paleolithic era, pieces belonging to the Etruscan civilization, a large Roman exhibition and even an Egyptian section. Then we visited the Palatine Library and examined ancient manuscripts and books. Naturally, we also wandered through the Art Gallery. There were many masterpieces, but perhaps the most famous was Leonardo da Vinci’s Testa di Fanciulla (La Scapigliata).
All the museums were amazing, but what really captivated me was the Farnese Theatre. Built in the early 17th century for the Duke of Parma, it was originally a wooden structure. Its construction began in preparation for a visit by Cosimo II de' Medici to Parma. As soon as I walked inside, I almost felt faint. I felt as if I had been transported to another time. Before me, I imagined noble ladies with elaborate hairstyles, perfumed and whispering gently, moving their hands gracefully, their silk gowns rustling in harmony with the melodic clinking of their precious jewels. I pictured gentlemen in tight breeches, velvet coats and leather-heeled shoes. I imagined the hall illuminated by thousands of candles and the orchestra slowly warming up before the performance began.
Leaving the museums, I was deeply moved. I loved the Archaeological Museum with its vast collection and equally enjoyed the Palatine Library, the Farnese Theatre and the National Art Gallery. Everything was fascinating, but what impressed me most was the Baroque-style wooden theatre. There was even a short play being performed. I was so touched that I both laughed and cried.
Afterward we returned to the hotel, rested a bit, changed clothes and took a short walk around the neighborhood. Interestingly, our restaurant was just nearby.
One thing we noticed was the quietness of the locals. People in Parma speak softly. In other Italian cities, people usually talk passionately and loudly, discussing everything at volume, but here everyone was calm. We adjusted to the atmosphere accordingly. I found this different from our usual habits, but I really liked it.
We strolled around the Battistero, photographing every detail. However, I was now only thinking about dinner because my feet were starting to hurt. We headed to a restaurant called La Forchetta di Parma, chosen because it offered both fish and meat menus. We had intended to sit inside, but since the weather was nice, we opted for a table outside. We made our decision based on the menü, when I saw mussels listed third on the menu, I thought "this is perfect for us". A similar thing happened in Genoa, where mussels were on the menu but unavailable in practice.
The olive oil used in the restaurant was produced by the chef’s family in Sicily. It was delicious, nearly resembling the flavor of our own. Someday, I plan to write a post about our own olive oil production.
The next morning, we woke up to a beautiful Saturday. We had breakfast, but honestly it disappointed us. For a four-star hotel, the service was rather basic. Not very diverse and only decent in quality. Since breakfast was served in the hotel restaurant, we had expected better. Then we headed out to the Battistero.
Parma’s traditional products are showcased here,including a large machine slicing prosciutto. We saw beautiful houses with lovely balconies that inspired dreams. There’s a post office here too, impossible to miss. It was a charming spot and there was even an old postal bicycle on display, once used by mail carriers. I had seen similar ones at the central post office building in Florence.
Then we arrived at the square. Entry to the church was 12 euros. My friend didn’t want to pay for the church, but I was determined to go in. We did visit the Catholic Cathedral together. Photography isn't allowed inside, but we captured the façade. Definitely visit Parma, you can experience Roman-style architecture here. Although there are many tourists and small shops, it's a city filled with Italian charm, ideal for those who wish to explore.
The Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral was amazing. The floor was made of smooth stones and pebbles, with grass growing between them, symbolic, in a way. The ticket included entry to both the Battistero and the museum. First, we went to the museum, where I watched a film about the statues of the Battistero and then entered. Visiting the Parma Episcopal Museum felt like a leap through time. Located in the basement of the episcopal palace, it offered a chance to see sacred artworks and details from Parma’s Roman period. Most of the sculptures were from the Roman era, along with fragments of ancient city walls and a mosaic floor, possibly part of a pre-Christian basilica. Though small, the museum is worth visiting and can be explored in 15–20 minutes. Finally we toured the Battistero itself.
Our time in Parma was slowly coming to an end. Now it was time for shopping. We bought Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and local wines. Oh, we forgot the Teatro Regio. We'll save that for our next visit. We’ll plan a special trip there, perhaps combining it with a tour or an opera performance.
We purchased our Parmigiano cheese and wine, even the same brand of wine we had the previous night. After leaving the hotel, we decided to stop by an enoteca (wine shop) on our way home. This place was located in a neighborhood of the city and Google warned us it might close an hour after we left the hotel, but we figured we could make it in 45 minutes. The area was surrounded by greenery, almost like being in a forest with small, charming houses. I couldn’t believe my eyes. It was really beautiful. We bought various local wines.
On our way back, unexpectedly hungry we diverted to Moretola heading toward Modena. Modena is a neighboring city, yet quite different from Parma. The people are calm. Even at the market, there was no noise. We quickly checked out Modena Cathedral Square.
We walked around the cathedral and found a lovely square behind it. It was Saturday afternoon and there was a market set up. The antiques market was fantastic. After wandering around for a while, we returned to the car and continued on our way.
I hope you enjoyed reading this post and that it inspires you to visit these beautiful cities in central Italy. I highly recommend them. Wishing you all a good morning, afternoon or evening. May your week or weekend be wonderful.