Hello my friends. Today I wanted to talk about our trip to Volterra, which we visited over the weekend. Volterra is an ancient city where the Etruscans lived in antiquity. The stone houses and grand gates still stand. We traveled there through small rural roads. After arriving we parked our car and started exploring the city.
Volterra was one of the central cities of the ancient Etruscan state and was quite advanced. The Etruscans loved building large cities, but they also established smaller settlements. They preferred to build their settlements on high hills whenever possible. Here, we found ourselves on one such hill, overlooking valleys and cities below. The city was founded during the Etruscan period and the oldest structures we saw here date back archaeologically to the ninth century bce. There are also Roman archaeological excavations, particularly a Roman theater and medieval buildings. The Etruscans were also famous for their alabaster craftsmanship, a tradition that continues in the modern world.
The city center definitely has a medieval atmosphere; to see the Etruscan remnants, one must visit the museum. The Etruscans were also masters of bronze working, which contributed to their wealth. Here you can buy various stylized souvenirs: figurines, combs and a wide range of interesting items. We passed through the medieval part of the city, where we saw a 15th-century institute, now transformed into a modern art gallery. We then walked towards the Etruscan gates.
Traditional linens were hanging from the windows, which I think is a completely Italian scene. These narrow streets are a full-fledged medieval tourist attraction. Everything in the city center is decorated with handmade craftsmanship and this city has existed for thousands of years. People often place bowls of water for animals, leaving water for cats and dogs. We arrived at the Etruscan gates, the entrance to the city. These gates are called Porta all'Arco and people still pass through them, even cars.
A characteristic feature of Etruscan architecture is the use of massive stone blocks, reflecting their monumental architectural style. Many structures, like these gates, have endured a long history. These gates were built in the 4th century BCE and underwent many modifications. For example, the large stone blocks we see here were used by the Etruscans, but the arch structure is made of brick, a material favored by the Romans. If we look up at the top of the arch, we can see a medieval fortification. Naturally, the Etruscans did not leave the gates suspended in the air; all these structures were part of a defensive system.
We moved on to the main square, where the city hall is located. We decided not to visit the city hall, though it is probably no less interesting than Renaissance examples in Florence. However, I definitely wanted to visit the Pinacoteca or painting gallery, because it houses one of my favorite works in the history of art: The Deposition from the Cross by Rosso Fiorentino. I believe this is one of the most astonishing works in art history. Considering the time it was created, I will compare it with other works to grasp how ahead of its time it was. It feels as if an artist from the future painted it,created in 1521, yet it looks like something from the 20th or even the 21st century. Unfortunately, it was not understood by his contemporaries and his creativity was appreciated in France, where he laid the foundation for the Fontainebleau School.
The stairs here are fascinating. The wooden ceilings and various church artifacts make us feel as if we are inside a medieval church. All of these objects, used in Catholic ceremonies, are displayed here. Of course, not everything on display is a globally significant example of medieval art, but the museum has an interesting collection.
In particular, Rosso Fiorentino’s work is definitely worth coming here to see. There are also wooden sculptures on display, which were frequently used to decorate churches in the Middle Ages. These sculptures represent saints, although they are not to my taste, they hold symbolic value. And there are works by Ghirlandaio and Luca Signorelli, though they are currently under restoration.
Exploring the exhibition is quite enjoyable. There is also a small alabaster museum where various modern art pieces are exhibited. For example, a lamp made of alabaster creates a beautiful effect when light is placed inside it. At home I also place a candle inside a real alabaster lamp.It gives off a warm and pleasant glow. If you like, you can purchase such a design. Or, if you already have one, you can simply put a bulb or candle inside it.
We complete our visit by exploring the interesting inner courtyard of this building. There is also a well here, which has always frightened me. We had a light lunch at the restaurant here and then headed towards the Etruscan Acropolis.
If you don’t know, there are two types of structures: the acropolis and the necropolis. What is the difference? The acropolis is the living area in the heart of the city, while the necropolis refers to cemeteries. We started exploring the acropolis. At the end of the modern asphalt road, you can see a slightly disrupted layout inside. My shoes are causing me pain, but I am captivated by the charm of this place.
I want to draw your attention to the materials. If you’ve ever been to a Roman archaeological site, you’ll remember the characteristic Roman bricks used there. Here, however, you see massive stone blocks. Of course, archaeological excavations are useful for archaeologists, especially if you want to understand the deeper aspects of history. As far as I understand, what we see here are just the remains of walls. But what were they exactly? It’s really difficult to determine. There’s an open space that resembles a pool or a well. These kinds of ruins often evoke a sense of abandonment. Of course, archaeology dates back to ancient times, as far as the 7th century BCE, but this place is now filled with the ruins of different eras. The last time I visited, it looked less melancholic than it does now. However, if you have a special interest in Etruscan civilization, it is definitely worth visiting. If you want to see something more monumental than what is in the Archaeological Museum in Florence, Volterra is the perfect place. Here, you can explore not only the Etruscans but also the Romans and later periods.
We walked down streets that are thousands of years old, heading towards the water collection tanks. This place is strange yet has a pleasant scent. It has an almost temple-like atmosphere; the tranquility created by the dripping water is breathtaking. There’s also an incredible fragrance here. Something like sandalwood or patchouli. A dry yet rich blend, this place has a strong energy. Water has always been a vital resource throughout history and people have often treated it with reverence.
Next to the acropolis there is a modern children’s park. Swings, toys and amusement areas. Here, the 21st century meets the 4th century BCE. Volterra is also famous for its medieval architecture, particularly its tower houses. However, such towers can be found in many medieval cities.
Since Volterra also flourished during the medieval period, similar tower houses exist here as well. The Roman theater is in quite a ruined state, though still well-preserved. You may or may not know this, but the Romans loved theater. Almost every city had a theater. Arenas, on the other hand, were usually located outside city walls and were used for more violent spectacles. Theaters, however, were ideal for musical plays and performances for audiences.
In the middle of the auditorium, you would find the orchestra section, followed by the stage. The stage had multiple layers, the columns you see indicate the different levels of the stage. Movements on stage did not always take place in the center; sometimes, they occurred in various parts of this complex decoration. Next to the theater, there were bathhouses. As you may know, ancient Romans enjoyed socializing rather than simply bathing.
There are many reasons why I love this place, but one of them is the ability to step back in time. For example, just an hour away from Florence, you can walk on the same stones that ancient Etruscans or Romans once walked on. It’s really astonishing. When thinking in the context of world history, Rome, medieval Italy and Renaissance Italy played a major role in shaping the world we live in today. Without these civilizations, the world would be a very different place. Many things we use today, many inventions were either entirely or partially discovered by Italians. This is something that should never be forgotten. However, every country, every person and every city has its flaws. Flaws give us an opportunity to grow and improve both ourselves and the places we live in. That’s why we are here in this world, to develop and enhance what we can.
I will end my blog here. I hope you enjoyed reading it. I wish you a good morning, a good day, a good evening and for those working during the week, a productive workweek and a great weekend.