Of Misty Lakes, Hidden Books, and One Last Cup of Hanoi

After procrastinating for about a million years, I’m finally back with a Vietnam post! This one’s about our last day in Hanoi (Day 4). I was already feeling a little down as the day began because I had grown to really love this city. And I had no idea when I’d get to come back again. I mean, yes, our return flight to India was from Hanoi, so technically we’d be back in the city for a bit… but it would only be for a few hours, which barely counts.

Still, I tried to shake off the blues because we were headed to Sa Pa next, and I was excited to explore a whole new place. So! Me and Ramesh (@bighungrypanda) woke up early, got ready, and stepped out to make the most of our final morning in Hanoi.

Misty Mornings and Hoan Kiem Bliss

The first thing we did was take a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and honestly, this turned out to be one of my favourite memories from Hanoi. The weather that entire week had been nothing short of magical. Foggy, chilly, and straight out of a dream. And walking around the lake in that early morning mist? Absolute bliss.

What made it even better was that the area around Hoan Kiem Lake is a pedestrian-only zone on weekends. Genius, really. I wish more places—especially touristy spots in India—would do this. It’s just so peaceful to walk without worrying about dodging scooters, cars, or dealing with relentless honking. We had parked our scooter somewhere nearby (honestly, no clue where exactly, Ramesh handled that part), and just wandered around soaking it all in.

Now, I should mention...I was feeling a bit under the weather. Mornings aren’t exactly my strong suit, and sometimes I genuinely feel sick when I wake up early. But the fresh air was doing wonders, and soon enough, Ramesh pulled out his camera and decided it was time for a mini photoshoot.

I had my jacket on for most of the photos, but of course, I had to take a few without it too. It was freezing, and I was literally shivering but like any dedicated model (😅), I braved the cold and struck my poses like a pro.

After our beautiful little stroll and impromptu shoot, it was time to hunt down some breakfast.

Café Giảng – The OG Egg Coffee Spot

For breakfast, we had two places in mind. First up was Café Giảng—the OG spot for egg coffee in Vietnam. We went there specifically to try their famous drink. I ordered the egg cocoa coffee (because chocolate, duh), and Ramesh went for the classic original.

Now here’s the weird part, I don’t remember what it tasted like. At all. I remember the café itself vividly: tiny space, low tables, stools that were basically an inch off the ground, and it was packed. There was absolutely zero effort on the aesthetic front like, this place wasn’t made for Instagram. But it had character, and clearly people were there for one reason only: the coffee.

But the coffee itself? My brain has just sort off... deleted it.

I only realized how much I don’t remember when I read Ramesh’s blog post. According to him, I didn’t like the coffee and he ended up drinking both mine and his. Which led to a mini debate between us, because I was like, “No way! I totally drank it!” And he’s like, “You had maybe half a cup, tops. I drank the rest.”

I think I liked it. I feel like I did. But he insists I didn’t finish it, and honestly? I have no clue anymore. My memory has completely wiped that moment out. All I know is, Ramesh loved it enough to polish off two servings and that says something.

He’d been hyping up Vietnam’s coffee from the start of the trip planning, calling it “liquid gold” and “the best ever.” I was skeptical, obviously. I mean... egg? in coffee? But now I really wish I could remember what it tasted like whether I actually liked it or not.

Ah well. Maybe next time. And there will be a next time, because Vietnam is definitely not a one-time trip kind of place.

Café Pho Co – Pretty but Meh

Next up on the list was a place I picked: Cafe Pho Co.

Now, let me be honest. When it comes to food, I’m a home-cooked-meal kinda girl. I do eat outside food while travelling, but it’s more for the sake of trying new things and soaking in the experience not because I’m actually craving it. I rarely enjoy restaurant food enough to feel full and satisfied. And that becomes a bit of a problem when you’re on a trip and there’s no “home” to come back to for dinner. So yeah, most of the food spots during our Vietnam trip were chosen by Ramesh. Scratch that—all of them were.

At one point, he was like, “You have to pick at least one place!” And I was like, “Fine, but don’t say I didn’t warn you.”

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So I chose Cafe Pho Co—solely based on aesthetics. I mean, I had no idea if the food would be good (how do you even tell from pictures?), but the place looked beautiful in all the photos. I did go through some reviews too, and they seemed decent enough, so I figured we’d give it a shot.

And... well. It was a bit of a letdown. Visually? Absolutely stunning. The place was gorgeous, and while we were there, a couple was even doing a pre-wedding photoshoot. They looked adorable, and the bride was absolutely radiant in her dress. So no complaints on the vibes.

But food-wise? Meh.

We ordered a croissant and some tea. The croissant was forgettable, but thank god for the tea, it was honestly my saviour throughout the trip. I had caught a cold and was dealing with a persistent cough (which, let me tell you, doesn’t go away easily). With the chilly weather in Hanoi, I’d pretty much accepted that I was going to be coughing through the entire trip. So every morning, a hot cup of soothing tea was pure magic.

The Real MVP: Banh Mi 25

That was all we had there. And obviously, that wasn’t going to cut it. So after feasting our eyes on the ambience and sipping our tea on empty stomachs, we finally made our way to Banh Mi 25 for a real breakfast.

If you’ve read any of my other Hanoi posts, you probably already know Banh Mi 25 was our go-to spot. Lunch, dinner, breakfast... you name it. It was cheap, delicious, and reliably filling. Everything you want when you’re on the move and need food that gives you energy without breaking the bank.

I went with the chicken Banh Mi, Ramesh had the pork Banh mi, and both were amazing as usual. Banh Mi 25 never disappoints.

After that amazing breakfast, we headed back to the hostel because it was time to check out. One thing I really appreciate about these hostels is how they let you leave your luggage in the lobby even after you’ve checked out. It’s such a lifesaver because let’s be honest, most travelers still have exploring to do after checkout, and dragging your bags around the city is not the vibe.

So we checked out, left our bags at the front, and just chilled in the lobby for a bit. It was packed that day, like, the entire lobby was full of backpacks, suitcases, and people doing their own last-minute packing and goodbyes. There was a certain chaotic energy in the air, but we found a quiet-ish corner to sit and catch our breath before heading out for our next adventure.

The Temple of Literature – Quiet, Poetic, Timeless

Our next destination was the Temple of Literature, but before we went in, something by the roadside caught our attention.

Just outside the entrance, after parking our scooter, we noticed this lady selling something super intriguing. She was making it right there, and the way she handled it—stretching and folding it—was so fascinating to watch. It looked like some sort of chewy sugar stick or candy, and honestly, it looked delicious.

We were curious but cautious, so we decided to buy just one to share.

And the moment we tasted it—oh my god—we loved it. It was chewy, sweet, and so different from anything we’d had before. We looked at each other and instantly knew: we had to get it again on our way back.

Later, after some intense Googling and a bit of trial and error with Google Lens, we finally figured out the name of the dessert: Keo Keo Chi. A random find, but definitely one of those “hidden gem” kind of moments.

After that little treat, we headed into the Temple of Literature. We got our entry tickets, and I considered getting the audio guide... but it was kind of expensive. By that point in the trip, we’d already started thinking, “Hmm, maybe let’s not splurge on everything.” So I skipped it.

Anyway, Ramesh was with me (my personal guide, always 😄), and there were plenty of plaques and signs around the place with detailed info. So I think we managed just fine without the fancy audio!

Visiting the Temple of Literature was one of the quieter, more serene moments of our Hanoi trip. There's something very peaceful about the place, even though it draws a decent number of tourists. It doesn’t feel crowded or loud. It feels... thoughtful.

The Temple of Literature is one of Vietnam’s most iconic landmarks, and I totally get why. Built in 1070 under Emperor Lý Thánh Tông, it’s dedicated to Confucius, and six years later, it became Vietnam’s first national university—the Imperial Academy. That alone is pretty cool. It’s over a thousand years old and was a center of learning for Vietnam’s elite. The fact that people back then were taking exams under mango trees while we now struggle with WiFi and distractions, makes you think!

Walking through the complex is like walking through layers of time. The temple is divided into five courtyards, each with its own significance. You start with neatly kept gardens and pathways, and then you slowly move into spaces that feel more scholarly and sacred. There are ponds with names like the “Well of Heavenly Clarity”—I mean, how poetic is that? And those big stone stelae mounted on the backs of turtles? They hold the names of students who passed the royal exams centuries ago. The turtles symbolize longevity and wisdom, and there’s something oddly comforting about them. Like they’re just calmly holding the weight of all that knowledge and history on their backs.

Inside one of the main halls, there’s an altar dedicated to Confucius and his disciples.
There’s also a small gift shop at the end, and I saw a few tourists there trying their hand at calligraphy, which they could take home as a souvenir. Honestly, it looked really lovely. Such a thoughtful, personal keepsake from a place so steeped in wisdom and learning.

All in all, the Temple of Literature was a beautiful mix of history, calm, and curiosity. It’s one of those places that doesn’t try too hard to impress—but still leaves a lasting impression.

A Bookstore So Hidden, It Felt Like Magic

After the Temple of Literature, our next stop was a bookstore—which, of course, was picked by yours truly. I’d watched a bunch of YouTube videos before the trip, and this place kept popping up as a “hidden gem” in Hanoi. Ironic, because how much of a hidden gem could it be if there were so many YouTube videos about it? But when they said "hidden", they meant it literally. The bookstore is pretty much tucked away from plain sight. The directions weren’t very clear, and we had to backtrack a couple of times before we finally figured out where the entrance was.

From the outside, it honestly looks like nothing. Just a tiny, unassuming space. But once you step in—oh my god—it’s a whole other world. It's like a labyrinth in there. The place just keeps going and going, and it has this lovely old-school, slightly dusty, rustic charm that every good bookstore should have. It was cozy, warm, and absolutely magical. Honestly, I just wanted to live there. Set up a mattress between the bookshelves and never leave.

Most of the books were in Vietnamese, which did make things a little tricky, but I didn’t really mind. I mean, just being surrounded by books, even if I can’t read them, is enough to make me happy. I was content just walking around, touching the covers, flipping through the pages, and taking in that comforting bookish smell. And the place itself was so photogenic, with its warm lighting and slightly chaotic charm. It felt like stepping into a literary time capsule.

Now, here's a fun (and slightly terrifying) fact. While researching the bookstore, I’d come across several people saying that the owner was really strict - “no photos or you’ll get kicked out” strict. So I went in with a mission: no photos. I was ready to sacrifice Instagram for this one. But Ramesh, being Ramesh, is not one to be scared off by a grumpy bookstore owner. He managed to sneak in a few pictures and even a short video without getting caught. That man is a rule-breaker with a camera and nerves of steel.

I had a whole plan ready in case we got into trouble. If someone caught him clicking photos, I was fully prepared to step aside, point at him dramatically, and say, “I’m not associated with this man. Please remove him, but let me stay." 😂 Thankfully, it never came to that. We made it out with memories, photos, and no bookstore bans. It was easily one of my favorite stops of the day—a true hidden cultural gem that I’ll remember for a long time.

A Scoop of History at Kem Tràng Tiền

Next up was Kem Tràng Tiền, the oldest and most iconic ice cream shop in Hanoi, founded back in 1958. It’s a beloved local institution, known for its unique flavors and affordable prices. Over the years, it’s become a nostalgic stop for both locals and tourists alike, ice cream with history.

Now let me just say, this is by far the biggest ice cream parlor I’ve ever seen. You don’t just walk into it. You step into a full-blown ice cream universe. The place was bustling, and the number of flavors on display? Mind-blowing. Some I hadn’t even heard of before. It was basically heaven for someone like me who’s always up for trying the most bizarre items on the menu.

Naturally, I went straight for the weirdest one I could spot: seaweed ice cream. Yup. I told you, I was here for the unique stuff. And oh my god. Unlike the infamous egg coffee (which I barely even remember), the flavor of that seaweed ice cream has been etched into my soul ever since. Even now, when I think about it, I can taste it. Did I love it? Absolutely not. Did I hate it? Weirdly, also no. It was awful, and yet... not? Like, I kind of liked how much I disliked it. You get me?

Anyway, we also tried the apricot mochi, which came in three perfect little balls of ice cream. Now those were delicious—sweet, refreshing, and a nice change after the seaweed madness. Of course, with three mochi balls and two people, a fight for the last one was inevitable. But don’t worry, peace was restored. We split it like civilized (and slightly sugar-high) adults.

Kem Tràng Tiền was such a fun stop, and honestly, how many people can say they’ve eaten seaweed ice cream in Vietnam’s most iconic ice cream shop?

Fogged Out at the Lotte Observation Deck

Our next stop was the Lotte Observation Deck, something I had been really looking forward to ever since we began planning the trip. From the research phase itself, this was one of those places I was genuinely excited about. I mean, who wouldn’t want to go up to the 65th floor and see the entire city of Hanoi sprawling beneath them?

Well… plot twist, we didn’t see the city. We saw fog. Just fog. It wasn't exactly a plot twist because Hanoi was covered with fog the entire time we were there.

Back when we booked our tickets, the weather in Hanoi was completely different. It never occurred to us that the entire city would suddenly be swallowed up by this thick, dreamy (but highly inconvenient) layer of fog. So there we were, standing on the top floor of a skyscraper, expecting panoramic city views… and all we got was cloud soup. I was honestly heartbroken. This was my first time visiting an observation deck like this, and I had imagined the view a million times in my head. Reality did not cooperate.

To make things worse (or better, depending on how you see it), they had these screens and displays showing what the view would look like on a clear day. And I swear, looking at those felt like a personal attack. I wanted to cry just a little bit more.

But anyway, we decided to make the most of it. We roamed around for a bit, explored the deck, and then noticed this photo booth tucked away in a corner. It had props. That was all I needed to get excited again. So we thought fine, if we can’t get views, we’ll get memories. And that’s exactly what we did.

After much (and I mean much) debate over which props to use—because I take these things very seriously—we finally picked two and got into the booth. It wasn’t just your standard click-and-go setup. This one let you pick the number of photos, layout, filters, and all that jazz. Pretty cool, actually.

Once we were done, the screen showed a QR code and said something about a video. Ramesh brushed it off, saying it was probably just a way to get digital copies of the photos. But I was like, nope, it specifically said video. So I scanned the code—and OH. MY. GOD.

It gave us this adorable little blooper-style video of us in the photo booth, adjusting our props, posing, laughing—all the behind-the-scenes moments you never really think are being recorded. It was the cutest thing ever. I swear, that video is my favourite souvenir from the whole trip. The pictures were great, sure, but this little clip? Heart-meltingly wholesome. Honestly, all photo booths should do this. Because as good as the pictures are the BTS are almost always 10x better and memorable to have.

So yeah, the Lotte Observation Deck may have failed me on the view front, but that photo booth? Totally redeemed the entire visit.

A Bittersweet Goodbye to Hanoi

After our little photo booth adventure at the Lotte Observation Deck, we decided to grab a bite before heading out of Hanoi. That’s when Ramesh spotted a Lotteria nearby—and he lit up like a kid in a candy store. I, on the other hand, was like… okay? Just another fast-food place? 😅 I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again—when it comes to food, I’m not easily impressed unless it’s something genuinely special. But Ramesh was excited, so in we went. He ordered something—probably a burger, I don’t even remember—but unsurprisingly, there were no veg options for me.

So we decided to head to Circle K, which was close to our hostel. I picked up a few snacks from there instead. Honestly, Vietnamese convenience stores deserve a whole separate post. So many cool snack options!

After stocking up, we headed back to the hostel lobby, which by now had started to feel weirdly familiar and comforting. We had a few hours to kill before our 10 p.m. sleeper bus to Sapa arrived, so we just chilled there, watching the clock tick and letting the fatigue settle in.

Right on time, at 10 p.m. sharp, a staff member from the bus company showed up. He gathered us—along with a few other travelers—and guided us to the pickup point. Since it was the weekend, the Old Quarter was closed off to vehicles, so we had to walk out of it to meet the bus.

That walk through Beer Street… oof. I didn’t expect it to hit so hard. It was one of my absolute favorite spots in Hanoi, and walking through it for the last time genuinely made me emotional. Even writing this now, I feel that pang again. It’s weird how cities grow on you, and Hanoi had wrapped itself around my heart without me even realizing it.

But Sapa was calling.

Now, let’s talk about that sleeper bus. I’ve taken plenty of sleeper buses in India, and I thought I knew what to expect—but this? This was luxury on wheels. I was not prepared.

We had:

• Massage beds (yes, actual massage beds 😭)

• USB ports at every seat

• Adjustable headrests

• Curtains for privacy

• Comfy, clean interiors that made it feel less like a bus and more like a cozy moving pod

It was such a surreal experience, lying back in this cocoon of comfort, slowly rolling away from the city I’d fallen in love with. With a heavy, heavy heart, I said goodbye to Hanoi… but also, with a flicker of excitement for the misty mountains and cool air that awaited us in Sapa. 💛