I never imagined that I’d find myself standing in the middle of a centuries old temple, feeling oddly at peace. As someone who has never been particularly religious, stepping into a place like Kapaleeswarar Temple felt foreign yet strangely familiar, like walking into a childhood memory you didn’t know you had. Maybe it was the air, thick with the scent of camphor and flowers from the vendors outside the temple, or the sheer weight of history embedded in every intricately carved pillar. Whatever it was, it made me pause.
Kapaleeswarar Temple sits in the heart of Mylapore, an area that seems to vibrate with an energy all its own. The towering gopuram, standing at an imposing 37 meters, dominates the street, its vivid carvings depicting gods, demons (I'm Assuming Here), and celestial beings in a riot of colour. I’d seen pictures before and visited similar such temples in my childhood, but nothing quite prepared me for the reality of it! It's so detailed, so massive, so alive. Every inch of the temple speaks of devotion, of centuries of faith, of people who came before me, whispering their prayers into the stone. The sound of temple bells ringing in the distance, the rhythmic chanting of priests, and the steady stream of visitors moving through its corridors created an atmosphere that was both chaotic and meditative.
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Photography and videography are strictly prohibited inside the main temple, preserving the sanctity of the space. Hence, I don’t have any pictures of the temple’s interiors but perhaps that’s for the best no? Some places are meant to be experienced in the moment rather than captured through a lens.
Walking through the temple with @yugadi was an experience in itself. She, unlike me, has a certain reverence for these places, and watching her take in the temple with quiet awe made me appreciate it in a way I wouldn’t have on my own. We wandered past the grand Maha Mandapam, where the ceilings echoed with the soft murmurs of devotees and the occasional clang of temple bells. The bronze statues of the 63 Nayanmars stood solemnly, waiting for their grand procession during the Aruvathumoovar festival. It’s one thing to read about history it’s another to stand among it.
The temple has been through its own cycle of destruction and rebirth. Originally built by the Pallavas in the 7th century, it was destroyed by the Portuguese, only to be rebuilt by the Vijayanagar kings in the 16th century. That’s the thing about places like this they endure. They adapt. And somehow, standing there, I felt like a part of that long, unbroken thread of time, despite my lack of belief.
We made our way toward the temple tank, It’s said that these temple tanks were once used for rituals and sacred baths, but today, they offer a quiet reprieve from the rush of the city. I watched as an old man sprinkled water over his head, eyes closed in deep devotion. A little further away, a group of children laughed and played near the steps, their voices carrying across the water. It was a contrast that struck me the coexistence of faith and the simple joys of life, both equally at home in this sacred space.
The Punnai tree in the courtyard, believed to be one of the oldest in Chennai, caught my attention. Trees like this have seen more than we ever will wars, celebrations, prayers whispered in desperation, and the quiet hum of everyday life. Standing beneath it's branches, Me and @yugadi let the moment settle in. Maybe it was just another ordinary evening for the temple, but for me, it was a rare kind of stillness, a pause in the usual rush of life.
There were so many cats in the vicinity of the temple, and I just couldn’t resist taking some pictures of them. They were everywhere! some resting in the shade, others walking around like they owned the place. A few of them sat near the temple steps, lazily watching people pass by. It was such a peaceful sight, and I loved capturing those moments. Cats always have a way of making any place feel more special, and seeing them around the temple made the visit even more enjoyable for me.
For someone who doesn’t pray, who doesn’t find solace in rituals or deities, this visit was something unexpected. I didn’t walk away with any newfound faith, but I did leave with something else, a sense of calm, of history, of connection to something much older and bigger than myself. And that, in its own way, was enough. As @yugadi and I walked out, the sun had begun to set, casting a warm, golden hue over the temple’s intricate facade. The chants continued, the bells rang, and life in Mylapore moved forward, as it always had. And for the first time in a long time, I simply let myself be a part of it.
I was supposed to have this up few day back but then I realised that I haven’t completely put up all the pictures and I was already in Mumbai by then for Lollapalooza which is a 2 day music festival that happens every year, Just got back home today so More on this in another post. Hope ya'll enjoyed this little piece ❤️ ✨
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