Hello dear travel lovers. I want to share with you my trip to the Alsace region in northeastern France. I visited Colmar, one of the most fairytale-like cities in the country. This place is unbelievably beautiful. I want to tell you about it at length and with love, because I loved it so much. Let me introduce you directly to the most beautiful spots and main landmarks of the city.
The first important building we saw was the House of heads or in French, Maison des Têtes. It was built at the beginning of the 17th century. Why is it called that? Because its façade has exactly 106 different faces, masks and heads carved into it. At first glance it looks like fewer, but if you look closely, you can really count all 106. When you look up, you notice a strange statue. This statue also has an interesting story. It was made by a great local architect. The figure holds a wine bottle in its hand because the building was converted into a wine exchange in the 19th century. Wines were sold and prices were set there.
But Colmar is mainly known for its fairytale half-timbered facades, those colorful timber-framed houses. You can also see this architectural style a lot in Strasbourg, which I’ll talk about in another post. But Colmar is simply filled with these kinds of houses. Of course, there are also gothic, renaissance, art deco and modern buildings, but the heart of Colmar is in its wooden architecture.
We walked through a few main streets and really felt the general atmosphere of the city. From time to time I would stop to look at small details. Because Colmar's beauty is hidden in the little things. For example, this house might not look very fancy, the plaster is falling off, but with its flowery details it says a lot about the city.
We were in Colmar on a Sunday and you can really feel what rural Europe means. Even in Paris you can find a market on a Sunday. But in Colmar it’s nearly impossible to find a shop open in the evening. I tried, but no luck. Everything was closed. While big cities in Europe have globalized, small towns still live in their traditional rhythm.
The timber-framed houses are of course extraordinary. This kind of structure became widespread starting from the 11th century. The wooden frame is left exposed and the gaps are filled with various materials like clay or straw. This gives a structure that’s both strong and warm.
We came to a building dated 1575, which used to serve as a town hall, market space and administrative center. Right next to it is another historic building painted white, built in 1350. It was restored in a gothic style in the 19th century. Its condition is still excellent.
The square across from it is currently under renovation. The ground is being repaved and the landscape is being redesigned. According to the plans, it’s going to look much better. Just ahead stands Colmar’s gothic cathedral Saint-Martin. Construction began in 1234 and was completed in 1575. It started in the gothic era and was finished during the renaissance, which is why the bell tower is in renaissance style.
At every step, there was a new beauty. We saw the Bartholdi museum. Bartholdi the sculptor born in this city, is the one who designed the Statue of Liberty in New York. His birthplace is now a museum. There are sculptures in the garden and even a small-scale Statue of Liberty in Colmar.
We saw a green-faced house from the year 1419. Next to it stands a more elegant structure called the Pfister House. It was built in the mid-1500s by a wealthy miner. The façade is very striking. Inside there’s a wine shop. The building's frame is still made from 500 to 600-year-old beams.
There was another timber-framed house from 1383. Imagine, a 600 year old house still standing. People often say wood rots quickly and can’t handle moisture, but here these homes have survived for centuries. It’s very impressive.
The decorations are another beauty altogether. Colorful flowers, heart-shaped ornaments, vintage bicycles. Some houses even have plastic stork figures. Why? Because the stork is a symbol of Alsace. In the 1980s storks almost disappeared due to pollution and wetland drainage. But later they were reintroduced, farms were built and the stork population began to grow again. Now they don’t migrate to warmer countries anymore, they stay here. Colmar is also one of the driest cities in France, which creates perfect conditions for vineyards. Even the corks of local wines have stork symbols on them.
We passed by another heavily decorated house. Its surface was full of patterns. But these patterns were actually painted. What looks like stone decorations on the walls are really done with paint. In French this is called trompe-l'oeil, meaning visual illusion. It’s a beautiful technique. By the way this building is a restaurant. There are even restaurants in Colmar recommended by the Michelin Guide. That’s something quite special for such a small city. This place has a population of only about sixty thousand, yet it has several Michelin-rated restaurants. And the prices aren’t outrageously high either.
Then we arrived in the area called Little Venice. Canals, wooden houses, boats. For around six euros, you can take a boat tour along the canal. When we went, it was very hot but sunny, which made the scenery even more beautiful.
Colmar has digital kiosks that provide information about the city. They offer Wi-Fi, have touchscreens and support multiple languages. They show you city events, places to visit and where to eat. It’s really a great idea.
I first planned to visit Colmar four years ago, before the pandemic. We had planned a big Europe road trip with friends. My only reservation in Colmar was a two-night hotel stay. Then the pandemic hit and everything was postponed. Finally, I managed to make this trip, even if a bit late.
I hope you enjoyed this post. See you next time.