This blog post is my contribution to the #beersaturday challenge. During a recent trip to Italy, I explored the craft beer scene in Lecco, a picturesque city by Lake Como. While Italian craft beers are still relatively rare in Dutch bottle shops, Lombardy alone boasts dozens of breweries. In Lecco I discovered some great spots for beer lovers. Here’s my experience!
Lombardy’s Hidden Craft Beer Scene
Although Italian craft beers are (still) not widely available in Dutch specialty stores, the northern province of Lombardy alone has dozens of breweries.
To explore both local and international beers, I travelled to Lecco. Lecco is a medium-sized city on the southeastern edge of the beautiful Lake Como, where the Adda river originates. Its bridges connect the city to the western bank of the Adda, making it accessible from the east via the Splügen Pass as well as from Como.
There’s a nice campsite on the south side of town with a view of the lake. You can reach the city center by bus or train, or take a 50-minute walk through a park along the water. The campsite is not exactly cheap (€29 per day) but neither are hotels in Lecco.
The Shamrock Irish Pub
My first stop was an Irish pub in the city center. With 35 degrees outside, sitting inside was not the best idea, but fortunately they have a lovely terrace under a gigantic tree, providing lots of shade and a pleasant temperature.
They offer a solid line-up of draught beers that matched the weather perfectly: IPAs, Double IPAs and New England IPAs. Draught prices were good (€4 for a half pint, €6 for a pint). Canned beers (around €7 for 47cl) were also tasty, featuring breweries like Bullhouse, Dead Central Brewing and Galway Bay.
There were also two local Lecco beers in cans (a Smoked Ale and a Scotch Ale) but I skipped those as they seemed more suitable for cooler weather. Maybe next winter.
In addition to snacks like fries, chicken wings and onion rings (€3-5), they also serve classic pub meals (€13).
Public House Gastropub
The Public House Gastropub looks more like a coffee bar than a traditional pub. It has a great view of Lake Como, but aside from a few parasols, there is little protection from the sun—so it gets very warm on nice days.
They have seven taps (€3 for 23cl, €6 for 50cl) with rotating beers; one tap usually features beer from the local DuLac brewery. There were other Italian beers on tap as well, including a tasty Hazy IPA from Birra dell’Eremo that paired perfectly with the warm weather.
There is also a fridge stocked with almost all DuLac beers (€5 for 33cl). This independent family brewery is located across the water in the village of Galbiate.
As for food, I didn’t get a real chance to try the kitchen. During weekdays the kitchen is open continuously, but on weekends there’s a break between lunch and dinner. There were complimentary chips on the table, though. I’ll definitely come back to try their meals next time.
Herba Monstrum Brewery
The best place in Lecco to have craft beer is, in my opinion, the Herba Monstrum Brewery. Tucked away among buildings in an old industrial area across from the city center, it’s a real urban oasis. You sit at large communal tables surrounded by plants, with a wooded mountain slope in the background. It’s best to grab a spot early, as it fills up with locals around dinner time (they’re closed on weekdays from 14:30 to 17:00, but the Sunday I visited they only reopened at 17:00). The picnic tables mean you'll sit with strangers, which adds to the friendly vibe.
They only serve their own beers, all on tap and of great quality (€4 for 30cl, €6 for 50cl). Surprisingly, the brewing does not take place on site: they use the facilities of The Wall in Venegono and Carrobiolo Brewery in Monza for their recipes.
Beer is always best enjoyed with good food, and the menu at Herba Monstrum features plenty of snacks. I highly recommend the Antipasto Della Casa (€18 for two people), and the burgers (€8 - 11) looked delicious as well.
Conclusion
If you’re looking for a place to spend an afternoon and evening with excellent local beers, good food, fair prices, and plenty of locals, Herba Monstrum Brewery is definitely the top spot. The terrace on the small square is a great place to enjoy their range of local craft beers in a lively, authentic atmosphere.
The Shamrock Irish Pub, beautifully located in the center of town, is an oasis of coolness with its shady terrace under a large tree. It’s highly recommended for a relaxing afternoon, offering a wonderful selection of international craft beers.