I think I like surfing in the winter in California more than I like surfing in the summer. The waves are different. There is something about the swells that come through from the north that are more gnarly then the hurricane swells from the south we get in the winter. I think its consistently bigger in the winter than the summer. I spent a lot of time in Ventura/Santa Barbara county this past winter.
I like the cold but I don't like being cold...does that make sense?
Sitting on the beach shooting kinda sucks at times. You don't have enough layers, the sand is so cold it numbs your feet, it's to windy. But its super worth it when you get shots like these.
Stay tuned for more past winter swells and soon to be upcoming winter swells. September/October the swells start to switch up. North swells start building and south swells still lingering. We get some of better south swells in October however it'll be time to throw on a thicker wetsuit before we know it.
All photos shot with Canon 70D, Sigma 100-600mm contemporary