HDR is somewhat of a popular expression in photography in the last while and there is much level headed discussion about it, regardless of whether it's great or awful, fitting or not, or even genuine photography or not. Indeed, even appropriate here on Digital Photography School, you can discover articles for, and against, doing HDR. I'm not going to get into any of that today, I'm recently going to address those of you that do appreciate doing it and might want a few hints for doing HDR dusks, which is one of the hardest subjects to deal with this system. So on the off chance that you are hostile to HDR, simply continue, or maybe this may influence you a little to need to attempt it.
HDR or High Dynamic Range, why it's awesome for dusks
When we discuss a scene having a High Dynamic Range, it essentially implies that there is extensive variety of difference from the darkest territory, to the brightest zone. Nightfalls represent that since we are generally shooting into the sun, a splendid light source, and the scene is frequently so dull it's in an outline. By shooting accurately and preparing admirably you can accomplish an outcome that has detail in both those ranges.
Tips for shooting the correct pictures
There are a couple of things you have to get appropriate in camera when you're at the scene so take after these tips.
Make a point to section your pictures sufficiently far on the two finishes of the introduction scale , however sufficiently dim and sufficiently brilliant. What I mean by that is your darkest picture ought to have a hole on the histogram to the correct side (which means there are no white zones, and no blinkies on your camera show) and your brightest picture ought to have a hole on the histgram's left edge (there are no dark regions)
Your darkest image’s histogram should look something like this with a gap on the right side.
Your brightest image’s histogram should look something like this with a gap on the left side.
shoot crude documents, they will give you the most measure of information to work with
section your pictures 2 stops separated, in light of the fact that accepting you took after the tip above and have shot crude documents, they convey a lot of information no less than 2 stops either heading so shooting 1 stop separated will make you shoot a bigger number of pictures than you require and simply wind up impeding your PC in handling, OR you won't shoot enough range
shoot at low ISO, in a perfect world 100. HDR handling brings a great deal of commotion into your picture so begin with a lower ISO to limit that issue.
utilize a tripod as your screen rates will probably be genuinely moderate, and it likewise enables you to get all your sectioned shots flawlessly adjusted for a more keen last picture. For the picture over my settings are: ISO 400 (I did that on the grounds that the light was blurring quick and I needed to shoot somewhat quicker), f8 at 1/1000, 1/250, 1/60, and 1/fifteenth of a moment
utilize a remote trigger (link discharge) to flame the camera, so you aren't touching it amid the exposures to decrease camera shake and a foggy picture
change just the screen speed, NEVER the gap. In the event that you change the gap in your sectioned pictures you are changing the concentration starting with one then onto the next and you're coming about mixed HDR picture will probably have some odd concentration issues or radiances.
This is the thing that your sectioned set should resemble. Great scope on both the dull and light closures of the light scale. Notice the darkest picture has bunches of decent shading in the sky, though the brightest one has a huge amount of detail in the forefront range yet none in the sky. This is ordinary, and precisely what you need.
Tips for processing the bracketed images
I use Photomatix as my HDR tone mapping software of touch. I find it gives me the flexibility to be able to produce both natural looking and surreal results. Whatever software you use for your tone mapping, try some of these tips for better sunset results:
if there are moving clouds in the scene or trees blowing, use the software’s deghosting feature to remove of minimize those. It will make the final result look much sharper.
when adjusting the tones in your software of choice keep your saturation settings low, don’t overdo it. In Photomatix I always (let me repeat that word), ALWAYS, keep my saturation under 50! When I pull it back into Lightroom afterwards and punch my blacks and contrast up the saturation increases with it, so it’s really easy to take it too far.
watch the sky for halos (white areas glowing around the edges of things) especially if the sky cloud free against something dark like a tree or building. Halos are generally an affect that is thought of as poorly done HDR and why many people do not like the technique. Sure you can create a surreal look but I do think you can take it too far. Just as an example, here’s what “too far” looks like in my opinion. Do NOT make something that looks like this. Notice the extreme noise and graininess in the sky? This is caused by pushing too far.
Over done, do not do this!
This is straight out of Photomatix. Notice how flat and drab looking it is?
Regularly when shooting a scene in HDR you'll see that one zone looks great in the event that you push it somewhat further, yet the other half doesn't. Such is the situation here. I find that I can push the land and frontal area territory somewhat further to get more detail out, however then the sky looks awful or has coronas. So you can cover in one picture of the sky if essential, or mix the two together utilizing Photoshop and pick which ranges are best from every form. See underneath for a case. Adaptation #1 prepared for a pleasantly mixed sky.
Version #1 processed for the sky
Version #2 in the middle is our over processed one from above but the foreground land looks pretty good.
Final blended version
source : https://digital-photography-school.com/tips-for-great-hdr-sunsets/