"The mirror lake."
Nothing prepared us for the spectacular views we were going to see that day.
We spontaneously planned a detour the night before to see the reflections of Aoraki Mountains from Lake Matheson. This would be followed by a hike to Fox Glacier.
We left Franz Josef Glacier Township immediately after breakfast. We were on the West Coast of the South Island on Day 17 of our 1-month New Zealand Family Road Trip. The advantage of not having a fixed itinerary was the possibility of squeezing in hike detours before continuing our journey south to Wanaka.
The eerie hike to Franz Josef Glacier the previous day seemed like a distant dream along with the many hiking trails that came before.
Lake Matheson Mirror Lake Free Walk
Lake Matheson a.k.a Te Ara Kairaumati Walk is a well maintained self guided track. The best part of this trail is playing peak-a-boo with the two highest mountain peaks in New Zealand; Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. I mentioned peak-a-boo because it's either you see them or you don't, depending on the weather.
From the cover photo, you know the answer. We got lucky.
Our family bat mobile pulled up in front of Matheson Cafe in an open parking space. We instantly took in the stunning landscape, while debating whether we had enough time to complete the entire loop or not.
There are two trails: Carpark to Jetty Viewpoint (40 minute return / 1 kilometer) and the* Long Circuit*. We decided to take the latter:
Lake Circuit
- Distance: 2.6 kilometers return
- Time: 1 hour and 30 minutes to complete the entire loop
- Level of difficulty: Easy peasy
- Bring drinking water, insect repellent, sun protection
- Prone to rapid weather change so bring waterproof and warm clothing
Lake Matheson is quietly tucked in the middle of an ancient forest. It was formed by Fox Glacier around 14,000 years ago when it spread towards the valley. It created a sunken area that was later filled with dark brown water. While it is forbidden to kayak or ride a boat on the lake, it is home to long finned eels.
Jetty Viewpoint
Lake Matheson is the most photographed lake throughout New Zealand with the perfectly still mirror-like reflection of the Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. It was a beautiful day with the sun streaming through the tall rimu and kahikatea trees.
I found these interesting quotes at the jetty viewpoint. One of which was quite a premonition. It reads:
"I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in tune once more." - John Burroughs
My mother and father-in-law made a U-turn after visiting Jetty Viewpoint. The three of us continued to complete the loop with Anaïs on her Papa's shoulders. There were quite a number of tourists during our visit and one could clearly understand why.
Reflection Island
Since we were pressed for time, @iamyohann walked at a faster rhythm with Anais on his shoulders. I stayed several paces behind to take pictures.
By accident, Yohann bumped into a protruding steel cable connector while looking at an interesting view. His head bled profusely. Trying to keep calm, I instinctively took Anaïs, while he rushed ahead. Yohann quickly managed the rest of the trail with his hand pressed on his head.
My mother-in-law panicked at the sight of blood that trickled down on his face, his blood stained cap and shirt. She ran to the car to hand him some tissues. Worried that he might require sutures, he immediately ran towards the bathroom to check the wound.
We insisted that he should see a doctor. He declined and merely asked to stay at the backseat of the car and observe. I drove the car on Cook Flat Road and followed the navigator. Once we passed Fox Glacier Township, stealing a glance at the rear view mirror I said,
"Let's skip Fox Glacier. I don't think you can hike in this condition. "
To that, Yohann replied,
" The bleeding stopped. Turn there, let's do the glacier."
So off we went.
Fox Glacier Valley Walk
On State Highway 6 (Haast Highway) we turned left to Fox Glacier Road that runs parallel to Fox River. At the end of the road is a car park and the start of the track.
Alpine Heli Treks and Heli-Hike Tours
In my previous post, I mentioned that Heli-Hike Toursare popular to tourists who would like to hike on the glaciers. Hiking on the glaciers was an activity that Yohann enjoyed in 2001. While those who would like to skip hiking altogether can enjoy the birds eye view of Aoraki Mount Cook, Fox Glacier, Franz Glacier, Southern Alps and the Tasman Sea via scenic flights.
For a family of 5, helicopter tours were beyond our budget.
"But I would Walk 500 miles and I would walk 500 more.." the music played on the radio- chanted by The Proclaimers.
This song was our family's hymn for New Zealand the first time we set our foot there. Hearing this song wherever we are, always brings us back to Kiwi land.
Fox Glacier or Te Moeka o Tuawe just like Franz Josef Glacier is rapidly receding. It is about 13 kilometers long, one of the longest glaciers situated in Westland Tai Poutini National Park on the west coast of New Zealand's south island. It's also fast moving.
The Valley Walk was a 1-hour return hike with minor slopes that required some hamstring and calves action. It somehow reminded me of Holy Week treks. I didn't know why, but it did.
The guide said it was an easy walk, but I beg to disagree. These photos provide evidence of that :) @iamyohann took pictures during the hike.
Safety Travel Tip: Always follow the markers. Never drift away from the path especially in these unstable environments.
All I could remember were rocks and then more rocks under the scorching sun. We finally spotted Fox Glacier Terminal Face at the end of the hike.
Oops, that's not the Terminal Face. This one is:
Accidents on the Glaciers
What was great about Fox Glacier was, it was easily accessible at the time. However, Glacier areas are always unstable. In 2009, two Australian brothers died when an ice shelf collapsed. They were crushed under tons of ice and rubble. According to wiki, they crossed safety barriers to take photos. On November 2015, seven people sadly died during a scenic helicopter crash.
Alpine Gardens Landslide
Fox Glacier Valley Walk sadly remains closed, indefinitely, due to the country's largest active slip. The access road on State Highway 6 was flooded due to a massive landslide last 2019. The landslip was so devastating it even washed Waiho River Bridge away. The same bridge where I dreamily walked in my previous post.
Tourism has been badly struck since the incident and the pandemic made it even more difficult leaving empty roads with local businesses relying on domestic tourism.
Current Situation in the Glacier Country
Travelers could still visit the town center, walk to Lake Matheson and see the glacier through scenic flightseeing tours to both glaciers. Franz Josef Glacier track is still accessible.
The next road trip adventure will be a long drive towards the most scenic route in New Zealand's South Island. To be continued..