I promise this will be my last photodump post for a while - my cellphone camera got lost on the sea.
Dannemark-Ulön
We slept by anchor just south of Ulön-Dannemark. Here is a seamap with our position: https://kart.gulesider.no/m/tDzn0
The night before, my crewmate was quite worried because the depth-meter was showing values like 10-40 cm of water under the keel, that's not much. The map said the depth should be like 3-5 metres deep. I was honestly more concerned that he had made dinner which was becoming cold ... so after dining I found a very small anchor and dropped it down to measure the depth of the sea. It went down several metres and it was covered with sea weed when it came up. Conclusion: there were probably some 10-40 cm of water between the keel and the sea weed. When taking up the anchor in the morning ... it was a complete mess, lots and lots of seaweed (I just left it like that - some 24 hours later everything had dried up and blown away).
This is a piece of the Ulön island. It looks like "just some granite", but I can ensure you there is plenty of vegetation on the island!
position: geo:58.51173,11.274675 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:35:26 localtime - full quality
This civilization is a part of the Heestrand settlement (Heestrand, that doesn't sound much like a Scandinavian name).
position: geo:58.512237,11.274688 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:35:35 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.51395,11.273396 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:37:21 localtime - full quality
There are some few lines about Ulön-Dannemark on Wikipedia. Further, skimming the titles returned by a quick google search reveals that the beach that is barely seen on the photo is "possibly the best beach in Sweden". I don't know about that, but I can tell that we have been visiting that beach and we have been going for a walk on the island and we enjoyed it!
position: geo:58.515419,11.268101 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:41:02 localtime - full quality
Hornö Renne
position: geo:58.517948,11.259465 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:45:27 localtime - full quality
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position: geo:58.521041,11.255894 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:48:47 localtime - full quality
One out of many cottages at Hornö. This one looks particularly nice as they have a decorated boat house and an outdoor bath tub with wood-fired heating.
position: geo:58.521629,11.255736 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:49:16 localtime - full quality
According to kanaler.arnholm.nu, Hornös renne has been artificially made deeper. This photo is to the starboard side, which is connected to the road network, but luckily not that easy to see from the sea.
position: geo:58.523262,11.255991 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:50:42 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.523414,11.255992 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:50:49 localtime - full quality
A cross-road - and I need a camera with zoom. The signposts read "Jorvik" (that's Viking-language for york) and "New York" to the west, "Göteborg" to the south, "Oslo" to the north and "Hamburgsund" to the east. I'm not sure, maybe the sign with "Oslo" is done in an attemt to try to keep the flow of homeward Norwegian tourists out of Hamburgsund. "E6" is clearly going through Hamburgsund.
position: geo:58.524711,11.256661 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 08:51:50 localtime - full quality
Hamburgsund
Hamburgsund is also covered by kanaler.arnholm.nu, as well as wikipedia
position: geo:58.531215,11.272188 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:00:24 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.536266,11.276655 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:05:25 localtime - full quality
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position: geo:58.538681,11.276474 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:13:47 localtime - full quality
Seems like someone is collecting old ship(wrecks).
position: geo:58.546161,11.270924 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:14:21 localtime - full quality
Warning sign about the cable ferry. It's not allowed to use sails through Hamburgsund due to the cable ferry. Read on, and you'll see why ...
position: geo:58.544403,11.269869 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:15:50 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.549171,11.270543 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:17:01 localtime - full quality
Local petrol station
position: geo:58.549316,11.27048 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:17:09 localtime - full quality
Nice white house, and nice white church in the background
position: geo:58.549423,11.270371 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:17:14 localtime - full quality
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Cable ferries in the background
position: geo:58.550769,11.269321 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:18:32 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.551456,11.268701 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:19:30 localtime - full quality
Kornelia is clearly just lying there ... it's not connected to any cables and hence not much useful there. It's really blocking my view to the active cable ferry. I probably should have just kept some speed here and the cable ferry would have had to wait for me. Instead I went really slowly, and just as I was close to the cable ferry, the cable snapped tight as the ferry started moving ...
position: geo:58.551647,11.268576 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:20:13 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.552421,11.266723 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:21:43 localtime - full quality
Here the cable ferry is already on the way back. One can clearly see that the tensioned cable is lifted up in the air ... so best not to try to cross while the ferry is passing!
position: geo:58.552722,11.2677 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:24:00 localtime - full quality
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position: geo:58.554775,11.267252 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:26:49 localtime - full quality
Quite some warnings about the ferry indeed
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position: geo:58.557109,11.262878 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:30:23 localtime - full quality
Some system for lifting the boat up from the water when it's not in use. It may even be considered environmentally friendly, as the owner won't have to use much antifoul painting on the boat.
position: geo:58.557399,11.262566 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:30:39 localtime - full quality
I love that some of the boathouses have names
position: geo:58.557861,11.262125 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:31:16 localtime - full quality
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- 2018-09-02 09:31:58 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.559387,11.260314 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:35:25 localtime - full quality
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Do you see the mermaid?
position: geo:58.561981,11.257516 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:36:13 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.562072,11.257414 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:36:15 localtime - full quality
I've seen this man before, but only now I saw that he's driving a segway! He's on the last property on the starboard side. On the sign it says "got tur" (wish you a pleasant journey) on the side seen when leaving Hamburgsund ...
position: geo:58.562397,11.256937 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:36:36 localtime - full quality
... and "sänk farten tack" for those entering Hamburgsund (slow down, please)
position: geo:58.562622,11.256706 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 09:36:51 localtime - full quality
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Fjällbacka, Tanumstrand, Grebbestad
Here is a view of Fjällbacka. We've stopped there once, but only for a very short stay - it was in the winter time and we asked someone there if they could fix our diesel heater. They told us to try in Grebbestad.
position: geo:58.594768,11.26465 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 10:26:46 localtime - full quality
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position: geo:58.597629,11.27285 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 10:41:27 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.67031,11.261598 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 11:42:05 localtime - full quality
This is from Tanumstrand, south of Grebbestad (Swedish Wikipedia). I've never stopped there, but I have stopped in Grebbestad, several times. It's a nice town, particularly nice to climb the hills and watch the view. It's a bit far from the guest harbour to the food shop. It's probably possible to get quite close to the shop by dhingy, but in the central parts of Grebbestad it's very shallow and only private boat places. Grebbestad has the shop Systembolaget, which is needed for anyone wanting to buy alcoholic beverages in Sweden. In the regular food shops they are not allowed to sell anything with more than 3.5% alcohol. Actually, we do enjoy this - the food shops in Sweden has a broad selection of beer with 3.5% alcohol strength. That's quite perfect, as one can drink such beer in almost unlimited quantities without worrying about becoming too drunk to sail the boat. There is also Systembolag in Strömstad and Kungshamn, but both places they are relatively far away from the guest harbour. In Strömstad it's possible to get reasonably close to Systembolaget by the dhingy. But I digress ...
position: geo:58.674396,11.262596 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 11:43:13 localtime - full quality
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Unfortunately I forgot to take photos from Grebbestad.
A bit after Grebbestad comes "Gula Humparna", literally the yellow bumps. This is a short stretch of sea that is quite so unprotected against the elements, so it can be quite bumpy indeed if the weather is bad. I don't understand why they are "yellow" though ...
Havstenssund
Next place on the route is Havstenssund (Swedish Wikipedia). Here is the beach:
position: geo:58.672458,11.260393 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:28:38 localtime - full quality
And the lighthouse
position: geo:58.752555,11.176054 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:29:06 localtime - full quality
Here is the port side, when passing the light house. This is a smaller island without road connection (nor public ferries).
position: geo:58.752593,11.176079 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:30:26 localtime - full quality
Starboard side
position: geo:58.75423,11.17675 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:30:43 localtime - full quality
More port side view
position: geo:58.754459,11.176968 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:31:02 localtime - full quality
Starboard, fishing boats and the shop Syversen from 1888
position: geo:58.754001,11.17683 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:31:36 localtime - full quality
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position: geo:58.755413,11.177351 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:32:12 localtime - full quality
position: geo:58.755786,11.177351 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:32:32 localtime - full quality
If stopping in Havstenssund, I would strongly encourage to go find the sliced hill (bergklyft).
Resö, Ramsö, Koster, Sekken
I think I tried to sleep a bit - no photos from this distance.
We've been stopping at Resö, Ramsö and Koster earlier.
The border crossing to Norway is yet another rough patch, we did experience some rolling there.
Herfølrenna, Skjærhalden
Herfølrenna is straight ahead here:
position: geo:58.993701,11.067036 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 16:54:59 localtime - full quality
Herfølrenna is also quite narrow and a bit stressful. Unfortunately I was too busy first trying to reduce the sail area (it was a bit chaotic and undecided when entering if we would get the tailwind or the headwind), then navigating through the straight, so no photos taken. Afterwards I was busy taking in the mainsail completely, putting out some fenders (but not enough of them, I discovered a bit later), and then mooring up at Skjærhalden, where my crewmate jumped off to take a bus back to Oslo. The landing was a bit crazy, I didn't quite anticipate that I (due to the wind and the current) would have probably more than a knot of speed sideways towards the floating quay. Should have added much more fenders.
Selected photos available in original quality on IPFS QmZNJSBS8tkJxZpeBw4EMF2pxaEErXFuNy8C7ENhotcuA8. All photos taken available in original quality on IPFS QmV4Po8jy73gpYzWjb1hjuj7ZkWPdwJVcz13CgsXhe4mwb. The CC BY-SA 4.0 license applies on both my photos and the article
Hvaler, Søstrene, Missingen, Rauer, Larkollen, Moss
We went completely on the outside of Hvaler, it's the shortest way, but it can be a bit rough and uncomfortable. My middle son was with me, he's usually not the one to get sea sick, but outside Hvaler he needed the bucket - just in case. It got too dark to take photos. Søstrene and Missingen are two pairs of islands that do offer a little bit of temporary relief against the waves - then comes Rauer (which is still off-limits and owned by the military - all other islands that have been military areas in the Oslo fjord has been given up and turned over to the public), On the inside of Rauer as well as north of Rauer there are rarely bad waves.
I've been anchoring outside Larkollen many times, it was for sure tempting to do it again, but this time I was in a bit of a hurry, it was Sunday and my son should get to school Monday morning.
I arrived at Moss around 02:15, but I did have a list of things that should be done before I could get to bed - like paying harbour fee and putting some laundry to wash - so only around 03 I was in bed. Up again at 06 next morning to get my son to school. I had Monday and Tuesday off due to weekend work. I went home to say hi to my wife ... my plan was to go directly back to the boat, but I had been sleeping for too little, so I spent quite some hours in bed before I got back to the boat. I got back to Moss before 16, took a taxi up to a boat equipment shop (so annoying they don't have it by the sea!) to buy a new fridge (the old one got the door for the small freezer compartment destroyed ... I managed to hack it together using glue, a screw and some paper ... but now it got broken again just before we lended out the boat - without that door in place there was quite some growth of ice - and eventually while the boat was lended away someone decided to defrost it using a knife - not a good idea, the cooling circuit got punctured).
I spent really long time getting the fridge in place and failed a bit ... the new fridge was a bit bigger than the old one. I had quite much other cleaning and maintenance to do there as well, and I also considered I needed to go rollerblading to a shop to buy some glass fibre and some other stuff for boat repairs ... so I got a bit late to bed. My plan was to get up really early and sail on. But of course, in the morning the motivation to get out of bed very early just wasn't there. Then I decided to do some repairs on the sail while it was no wind ... this took crazy many hours, in the end I did get only half the way to Oslo and still I got home really late in the night.
Sandspollen, Oslo
I left the boat by anchor in Sandspollen, a place I covered before in my post Sandspollen - 101 boats. Guess what - this time I could observe one and only one other boat except mine, and it was a small boat permanently anchored up in the far end of the anchorage. Well, plus some boats at the marina there and some few boats belonging to cottages.
I got back to it on a chaos day, for one thing I was a bit ill ... then the lifetime of the anchor winch had obviously expired, no hope getting it to life. Darn, I just spent so much money on the fridge, and now I will have to spend even more on a new anchor winch? Next thing, I managed to lose my telephone into the sea. Then I was a bit clumsy when dropping the anchor after arriving to Oslo, suddenly I needed to use motor power in the aft direction - I was quite unprepared for that, my dhingy was on a long rope, of course I managed to get that rope into the propellor. It just wasn't my day.
Saturday the 8th I was back to the boat again, and had some crazy experiences ... but that's for another post.