I was really dreading this supply run, even though things in Leon are a little more settled than Managua for the moment.
I arranged for my friend Erwin to come and drive us. His car has dark tinted windows so is better for me to be out and about in. Less of a target. He said he would arrange to pick up Luciano and Luis on his way over.
At 6:45 am on Friday Manuel and Edwin open the gate for the three musketeers. Good morning hugs all around. Don Manuel holds prayers so we might have a safe trip. The littlest Cling-ons (little ones hanging off legs and neck)want to come too but settle for a promise of a treat when we get back.
The reusable grocery bags? Check. Grocery list/agenda? Check. Mama Castor safely buckled in. Check. Will with Thermos for medicines? Check. All caps on facing backwards? Check. Ready to go.
Luciano and Luis close the gate. It takes two to open and close because it is so heavy. I love the sound of the gate rolling closed on its metal tracks. Reminds me of a train coming down the tracks. When I hear that final “clang” as it closes, I know for certain that my friends and family will be safe while we are gone.
The car is already sagging in the back as we have three large men squashed, shoulder to shoulder, into the back seat looking a tad uncomfortable. All three are 6 foot or taller and very well built. Think 3 full grown Sasquatch sitting in the back of a Toyota Corolla. Not much leg room I’m afraid! Good thing it is not a long trip!
17 of the neighbourhood malnourished mangy rat dogs come out to chew the tires of the car as we are bouncing down the uneven rock-filled dirt road that gratefully is dry today. The usual mud holes are dry due to lack of rain.
We come to a stop at the main highway just as the 7 am bus pulls to a screeching halt to pick up a large group of people heading into the market with their sacs and blue plastic barrels fresh fish. We head on to the beach for a few minutes so mama Castor can gather her thoughts for the day.
Love looking at the ocean, watching the pelicans diving for their breakfast. No ships out on the horizon this morning. The waves pounding up against the coral outcrop. There are a few fishermen casting out lines from the edge. A dangerous place to fish.
Okay, time to get the show on the road. Back onto the highway and off towards Leon. A handful of people waiting for the bus, a few grazing cattle, one lone pig and a scattering of chickens by the side of the road and not much else of interest. No traffic which is odd for a Friday. Very quiet ride.
As we come into Sutiava, we notice a small crowd of people in front of the market, but fewer vendors than usual. Lots of tricyclos milling about, waiting for the bus from Poneloya/Los Pinetas like a school of sharks anticipating a feed.
Most of the businesses are closed as it is still early. But the vet supply is open so we stop to buy dog and cat food. All out of dog food but we can get two bags of cat food. Price has increased by 50%! Not good.
Load it into the trunk and off we go. Next stop, my favourite pharmacy.
Oh no! They are closed! Gone out of business. It was run by an elderly couple and I guess this was as good as any time to retire...I will miss them. Okay, on to the next stop.
As we are approaching the Parque de Poetas corner near the centre of town, Erwin suddenly makes a sharp turn to the right and says “Sorry”. I spy at least two dozen heavily bearded men wearing red bandannas and black uniforms, with automatic weapons in their hands sitting in the back of three Hilux 4x4 pick up trucks parked in front of the park. Best to avoid these men in black. They instil fear in everyone. With good reason.
We drive 4 more blocks and come to the Central Market. We pass between the Cathedral and the market to find a parking spot right by the front door. Will and Luciano ran in to buy 4 gallons of glacial acetic acid (100% concentrated vinegar). I use this in various dilutions for softener in the laundry, pickling, homemade cleaning solutions, and of course salad dressings. 10 minutes later, we are on our way to the next stop, the bank.
The guards see Erwin’s car turn the corner and they open the gate to the parking area as we pull up. Will accompanies me into the bank. The guards all know us. We exchange greetings and small talk. Today they have a new trainee with them. Introductions are made and 10 minutes later we exit the bank.
As we are leaving the bank, I am greeted with a big hug from the guy who exchanges money for me, from dollars to Cordobas. We ask about each other families and he asks if I have company today. He tells me it is not safe for us to be out alone. He glances over and sees Luciano and Luis standing by the gate waiting for us. A big smile crosses his face as he nods to the guys. Nice to know everyone is looking out for mama Castor!
Back in the car and on to the next stop. Two blocks down we park in front of my internet provider. Will ran in and paid the bill for the month. The cashier came to the door and waves hello. 10 minutes, the job is completed.
Okay, next, we play let’s find a pharmacy that has supplies. First one is 4 blocks from where we are. We pass Parque de Mercedes and the university annexe. Odd. It is not open. No students, bikes or buses. We had heard that classes were supposed to resume last week.
We pass the casino and La Perla (an expensive hotel) and notice that both are boarded up and closed. We see our computer technician walking past on his way to work. We stop and chat for a few minutes.
I can get almost all the medicines and the first aid supplies we need here. We are short syringes, some blood pressure medication and Vitamin E. Fortunately, there is a second pharmacy across the street and down one block. Will heads off while I wait for my order to be packaged.
Almost success. Short on syringes. There is another pharmacy two blocks behind us on the opposite side of the street. Luciano runs down and comes back a few minutes later with a big grin on his face. He was successful!
Next stop is to pay the water bill. Will and Luis run in to pay the bill. The guy at the counter gives Will an odd look and asks why we are still here. Will answers “We like the beach!” We noticed that no one is talking freely about the happenings here and we suspect it is because of the new law that has passed.
Another 10 minute stop completed and we are off to the post office. Dizzy yet?
Will and Luciano volunteer to go in. 15 minutes later they returned with 5 envelopes from Revenue Canada! Gotta love government! They are asking for more information and tell me I don’t owe them any money for 2017! Yay!
Everyone is ready for a break and breakfast! Time to figure out where to eat. Everyone in the back decides on McDonald’s. My stomach does a slow roll…
Erwin does a slow drive around the Parque de Mercedes looking for a parking spot. Oh, I see my friend, the parking ayudante is out bright and early this morning. He recognises the car and saves us a spot close to the corner. Haven’t seen him for a while so I ask about his health. He is mute, has multiple health issues and this is the only work available for him. He will watch the car while we go for breakfast.
As we walk down the street towards McDonald’s, Will noticed that our French bakery/cafe is open for business again. Two of the waiters are standing in the doorway, inviting us in. No discussion needed. We enter and are escorted to a nice quiet table in the air-conditioned room at the back. Coffees to start?
Yes, please, 5 cappuccinos. And we’ll order now too! Bacon quiches and freshly baked raisin danishes for everyone. Yum! The bakery smells scrumptious! I buy an extra breakfast as we are leaving for my buddy, the parking ayudante.
It is time to hit the streets one more time (cue Brittany Spears). We don’t want to pass the Parque de Poetas, so we go around the block and take a side street. Too late, we see more of the bearded men in black with semi-automatics. We have no choice but to pass them. Thank goodness they are busy, swarming another car. We quickly pass with them hardly a passing glance at us.
The back streets haven’t been repaired since the blockades were removed. Large holes, uneven corners and shallow trenches make it difficult getting from point A to point B. Only six torturous blocks to go.
Past the hospital where there are long lines of people weaving around the block. Looks like the service is even slower than ever since they fired 40 doctors and 60 nurses because they refused to participate in a government rally last month.
Finally, we reach our destination, the Maxi-Pali where we can usually purchase supplies in bulk at a reduced cost for household items and basics. Who know knows, maybe we will be lucky and get everything we need.
We encounter something new. We are interrogated by the parking lot guards carrying semi-automatic weapons.
Why are we here? Where do we come from? How long will we be? What are we purchasing? How much money are you carrying?
Really??? Are you kidding me? Gestapo at the supermarket?
I could see the guys tense up, getting ready to do battle. I really don’t to get into a fight here in the parking lot over this. I step up and tell them as calmly as I can that I am here to buy dog food and a few groceries and that I think I have enough to cover the costs. I have no intention of staying any longer than I have to. I just want the groceries and then I am going home.
I am shaking inside, wondering what will happen next. A third guard appears from inside, speaks to the two that have their weapons pointed at us. After a tete-a-tete, they signal that we could go in. A manager greets us at the door, shrugs his shoulders and tells us it is for the safety of the workers!
I just want to get the shopping done and get out! We split the list up and head off in different directions to get the things we need quickly. Will and I head for the dog food. Out of luck here too. They have some stuff but will only sell it by the pound. That won’t work for us. Geez. Now we are rationing dog food!
The meat department is pretty bare. We manage to get some canned and dry goods. Not much in the veggie department either. We manage to get some unmentionables for my son, other regular stuff such as shampoo, toothpaste and hand soap.
By now I was ready to leave. One cashier for 20 patrons. Standing room only. It takes longer to check out than to do the actual shopping. Pack the car up and head out. I am hearing rumbling from the Sasquatch squad that they are hungry. No one likes a hangry Sasquatch!
Back by popular demand is lunch at McDonald's. I thought I was going to get away with not eating there but it is already past one and I am too tired to argue the point.
The guys decided on the grilled chicken classic club meal. I must say, I was pleasantly surprised. The chicken was actually juicy and tasty. I gave my fries away. They are totally disgusting. And the iced tea was very refreshing. It was noticeably quiet in McDonald’s. Since it is the only one in Leon and the only other McDonald’s in the country is in Managua, this one is usually busy 24/7.
Walked back to the car, which was parked around the back of the Cathedral we noticed more of the pickups full of men in black coming towards the park in front of the Cathedral. Time to head home. This looks like it could be trouble brewing.
Stay tuned for the second part of the Supply run...