Wow..Surfing today was the hardest thing I can remember doing. My instructor & I had to WORK to get me to catch these waves. 🏄♀️
With a drill to stand up in the sand as I noticed my back foot turning in 😂 like wtf is it doing haha, to the shocking power of the ocean slamming the board as we paddled out time and time again, to ultimately trying to figure out how to jump up to standing as the board moved and somehow find balance (!) it was a hell of an experience.
I’ve been told I rode the final wave a bit (second to last photo) but it honestly wasn’t long before I flipped back into the sea so I figured it didn’t “count.”
I swear this experience was so wild I’m afraid my dreams will be filled with waves crashing and being underwater.
I want to give a shout out to the most patient and talented surfer Solomon who gave me this lesson, my very first lesson!
He did a great job and dealt with some interesting questions, literally did all the work to paddle out and catch the waves, and dealt with me yelling at the ocean/ myself a few times!! It was awesome to have the guidance and reminders of how tough this sport is and that everyone struggles their first go around.
Thanks @bryandivisions and @i_am_one_love_ for the support 💜🌺
Well I learned how powerful the ocean really is today and that I too can be powerful. I didn’t give up even though I partly wanted to and that means something.